USING ICE AXE AND CRAMPONS IN THE WINTER HILLS
Can’t tell your pick from your adze? James Roddie has a few pointers...
WINTER HILLWALKING is a joyous, exhilarating activity; but things can get serious very quickly. Snow and ice can transform the hills almost beyond recognition, bringing a range of hazards that require a specific skillset to deal with. Being able to safely and efficiently use an ice axe and crampons is a core requirement for winter hillwalking. However, if used incorrectly, they can themselves be the cause of accidents. Investing some time to learn how to use them properly will reward you greatly, ensuring you are ready when the snow arrives in the hills.
Walking with an ice axe
Along with walking in crampons, learning to use an ice axe is key to negotiating snow slopes safely.
You should have your axe easily accessible throughout a winter hill day. If you are walking on a snow slope, then take it off your pack and carry it. When walking with an ice axe, you should hold it by the head with the pick facing backwards and the adze facing forwards. Wrap your thumb around the base of the adze, line your index finger down the shaft, and wrap your other fingers under the pick. This will ensure a firm grip and enable you to get the axe into self-arrest position if needed, very quickly.
Make sure that you always hold the axe in your ‘uphill hand’ – this ensures the greatest amount of support. If you are zigzagging on a slope, swap the axe between hands with every change of direction. If you are ‘front-pointing’ directly up or down, then you will not have an ‘uphill hand’, so most people will use their stronger or more dominant arm. Whether moving uphill or downhill, plunge the axe spike (at the bottom of the shaft) firmly into the snow between steps. This provides a third point of contact with the slope, helping to prevent any slips.
It is common to have to negotiate small areas of snow where putting on crampons may be overkill. In this situation, an axe can be used for support as you kick steps in the snow with your boots, or to directly cut steps in the snow if it is icy. If you’re cutting steps, it is wise to attach a wrist leash to the axe, to avoid losing it if you accidentally let go of it mid-swing.
Learning to self-arrest is an essential skill for preventing a slip turning into something more serious. However, it is a last resort, and slips should always be avoided. Attend a winter skills course led by a qualified mountaineering instructor to learn how to self-arrest effectively.
Using crampons on flat snow
Don’t wait until you are on steep snow to put crampons on. Find a flat area where you can fit your crampons without risking a slip. The first few minutes of walking in crampons can feel odd, as you now have a bunch of metal spikes on your boots. Tripping over your own feet, and tearing clothing or skin, are now additional hazards worth considering, meaning you must adapt the way you walk.
On flat snow, keep your feet pointing forwards and shoulder-width apart. This prevents you from catching your crampons on your other boot or trouser leg.
As you take each step, ensure the soles of the crampons are parallel to the surface of the snow, so that all the bottom points engage at once – this is called ‘flat-footing’. Take deliberate steps, lifting each foot high enough so you don’t trip on the snow as you move.
Ascending in crampons
As you move onto a gentle slope, continue flat-footing. As the slope gets steeper, there will come a point at which you can no longer maintain this technique. One option here is to turn your feet to point
‘Hybrid’ technique means you front-point with one foot, and flat-foot with the other
across the slope (rather than straight up) at about the 2 o’clock or 10 o’clock position. This allows you to continue walking flatfooted without straining your ankles too much. However, this means your heels come closer together, which can make your footing unstable. Often, a better option is a ‘hybrid’ technique – you front-point with one foot, and flat-foot with the other. You will need to roll your ankle outwards on the flat-foot to engage all the crampon points. Swap feet every now and again to avoid tiring out your calves. This technique is less strenuous than front-pointing.
For steeper slopes you must adapt again. The best and most direct method for going straight up, down or across, is ‘front-pointing’: facing into the slope, and kicking your toes into the snow. By keeping your heels low and kicking firmly, you will engage the front and secondary points of your crampons, allowing you to step up on the snow. Your feet should be shoulderwidth apart and parallel to each other. Don’t allow your heel to lift or drop too much, or you could risk the front points slipping out as you step up.
Descending in crampons
It is crucial to concentrate throughout any descent, as even a small slip can have dire consequences.
On gentle slopes, you should be able to face directly downhill. The way in which you use your crampons here will depend on the quality of the snow. If the snow is soft, powdery or slushy, you can plunge your heels downwards to create steps. However, this will be unsafe on icy slopes – here you should flat-foot again. Keep your knees flexed and be sure to engage your whole crampon onto the snow, rather than the heel first.
On moderately steep terrain, you can face sideways to the slope and flat-foot down. This will be tiring, as you will need to roll your ankles sideways to keep all the crampon points engaged. Make sure you engage the crampons with some force, particularly if the snow is icy.
Facing into the slope and front-pointing in descent is the most secure method for most steep slopes. Make sure you keep your boots shoulder-width apart and kick your toe firmly into the snow. Do not allow your heel to rise above the level of your toe, or you risk the front points slipping out.