Go with your glut
Use up the last of the summer veg with a Ukrainian-style mix of courgettes, onions and tomatoes, slow-cooked until it collapses into a caviar-like paste for many an occasion
Of course, you could find a watery shop-bought version, which my dad shamelessly preferred! In fact, my mum says courgette paste wasn’t my grandmother’s favourite either – she preferred “aubergine caviar” for winter months. Courgettes were cheap, and at the end of the season she mostly gave them to the pigs.
But I loved it, eaten over a slice of coriander- and caraway-seed Borodinsky bread, molasses-dark. Nowadays, in autumn and winter, I love stuffing this paste into Azerbaijani-style qutabs or half moon flatbreads. It is also amazing with crudités or some pitta breads, or heated with a pinch of chilli flakes and stirred through pasta with some of the cooking water and pecorino.