This low-fat dress­ing is nearly per­fect – but it won’t help my waist­line very much

The Guardian - Cook - - The Delia Project -

Delia rec­om­mends boil­ing the eggs for ex­actly nine min­utes, then cool­ing them in cold water and peel­ing the shells. Per­haps this is in­tended as another way to get your weight down, be­cause there is no rea­son at all to go to the bother of peel­ing the eggs, since you are go­ing to cut them in half and use only the yolks. So I plough ahead, eggs un­peeled. Chop them in half, poke out the yolks with a spoon, add a ta­ble­spoon of water to them and pound into a soft paste with a wooden spoon. You then sea­son with pep­per and salt, stir in the fro­mage frais and the vine­gar, mix and sea­son again to taste, cover the bowl and leave it in the fridge for a cou­ple of hours to thicken. It will look wor­ry­ingly runny to be­gin with, but when you are done, you will have some­thing that tastes al­most, but not ex­actly, like may­on­naise.

But is it a waist-saver? I only ever re­ally eat may­on­naise when I’m hav­ing it with fancy fast food: fried chicken or burg­ers, say. Af­ter ex­per­i­men­ta­tion, I’ve dis­cov­ered that you can hap­pily sub­sti­tute Al­most May­on­naise into these meals, al­though you get odd looks from the wait­ers if you bring your own lit­tle Tup­per­ware pot in with you. But with­out also sub­sti­tut­ing it for Al­most Fried Chicken or Al­most Burg­ers, Al­most May­on­naise feels like some­thing of a dead end. You can turn it into a good and pleas­ingly fluffy aioli with just a lit­tle gar­lic – but again, as I tend to have aioli with tapas, I’m not cer­tain that the health ben­e­fits of re­duc­ing the fat in the aioli alone are all that great. Still, I feel a lit­tle more vir­tu­ous and a lit­tle less ro­tund by the end of chap­ter 25. Which is just as well, be­cause in the next chap­ter, I’m go­ing to learn how to make paté.

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