I used to cheat much less in the kitchen. As a young cook, full of ideas – and of myself – things had to be done ‘properly’, even at home: tins were a no-no and the freezer a no-go; fancy appliances were a last resort. Only pure, raw ingredients were acceptable, and every bit of prep had to be done by hand. How tedious. These days, I am far more forgiving. As long as the process is enjoyable and the food sustaining, I’m happy with any trick, any cheat, anything to put a delicious meal on the table.