The quick dish
Is bread having a renaissance? Restaurants that make their own sourdough increasingly pepper their menus with the leftovers. And why not? I love coming across a crunchy golden breadcrumb in a salad, on a pudding, or as a crust, like here. Today’s anchovydecked fish fillet is given a delicate crunch with a scattering of crisp crumbs. Never throw out that stale loaf.