Grace Dent ‘My favourite type of discovery ... wonky, weird, pretty much perfect’
Carters of Moseley sat on my list of “dinners I want to eat” for at least two years. But life’s flotsam prevented me. Also, if I’m honest, it’s trickier to find someone to accompany you on an experimental tasting odyssey in south Birmingham. San Sebastián? Now that’s easy. Modena? They’ll be queuing up. Goal hangers, the lot of them. Moseley, on the other hand, about three miles south of the Bullring, is a harder sell, which is shortsighted, because Brum is a lot of fun. There’s a lot of joy to be found at Digbeth Dining Club, the city centre’s weekly street-food shindig, and of course in a balti on Ladypool Road. And if fancy is what you’re after, the star men at Michelin love the West Midlands. They certainly seem impressed by chef Brad Carter, the young, bearded, intense-looking proprietor of Carters, who puts me in mind of someone you’ve seen in a sepia photo of Victorian strongmen.
There’s a large dose of maverick in this rather unassuming singleroom joint, between a pharmacy and a firm of solicitors in a mock Tudor parade of shops in Moseley. It does not feel a typical place to tout tasting menus of girolles with cereal, shimmering kohlrabi slices with tiny pine leaves or his Food ○
2c Wake Green Road, Moseley, Birmingham B13 9EZ. 0121 449 8885. Open TueSat, noon-1.30pm, 6.30pm-9pm. Four-eight courses £45-£85 a head, plus drinks and service.