Grace Dent ‘My favourite type of dis­cov­ery ... wonky, weird, pretty much per­fect’

The Guardian - Feast - - News -

Carters of Mose­ley sat on my list of “din­ners I want to eat” for at least two years. But life’s flot­sam pre­vented me. Also, if I’m hon­est, it’s trick­ier to find some­one to ac­com­pany you on an ex­per­i­men­tal tast­ing odyssey in south Birm­ing­ham. San Se­bastián? Now that’s easy. Mo­dena? They’ll be queu­ing up. Goal hangers, the lot of them. Mose­ley, on the other hand, about three miles south of the Bull­ring, is a harder sell, which is short­sighted, be­cause Brum is a lot of fun. There’s a lot of joy to be found at Dig­beth Din­ing Club, the city cen­tre’s weekly street-food shindig, and of course in a balti on Lady­pool Road. And if fancy is what you’re af­ter, the star men at Miche­lin love the West Mid­lands. They cer­tainly seem im­pressed by chef Brad Carter, the young, bearded, in­tense-look­ing pro­pri­etor of Carters, who puts me in mind of some­one you’ve seen in a sepia photo of Vic­to­rian strong­men.

There’s a large dose of mav­er­ick in this rather unas­sum­ing sin­gle­room joint, be­tween a phar­macy and a firm of solic­i­tors in a mock Tu­dor pa­rade of shops in Mose­ley. It does not feel a typ­i­cal place to tout tast­ing menus of girolles with ce­real, shim­mer­ing kohlrabi slices with tiny pine leaves or his Food ○

At­mos­phere ○

Ser­vice ○

2c Wake Green Road, Mose­ley, Birm­ing­ham B13 9EZ. 0121 449 8885. Open TueSat, noon-1.30pm, 6.30pm-9pm. Four-eight cour­ses £45-£85 a head, plus drinks and ser­vice.

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