The new vegan
Indian food has a north-south divide. While the north is (in general) slow, heavy and often a shade of red or brown, the south is fresher and more brightly flavoured. It’s a mystery to me why the north has tended to dominate our high streets. This pollichattu, a Keralan dish traditionally cooked in a banana leaf, is a wonderful introduction to the food of south India. Citrus, spice and coconut all vie for attention; the result is vibrant and delicious.