I’ve never been to Mexico – a travesty to which I plan to give my speedy attention. In the meantime, I must rely on ingredients I can find in the UK to create my own fiestas. Their signature dried chillies are widely available, and here I experiment with three – ancho, cascabel and chipotle – each with its own fruity, nutty or smoky character. But despite the popularity of tacos, no supermarket sells proper corn tortillas. I strongly advise making your own; otherwise, seek them out online or in specialty shops.