Grace Dent ‘These are not chippy chips. No, they are spe­cial, once-in-a-life­time chips’

The Guardian - Feast - - Feast -

Are fish and chips ever worth £32.50? This is pos­si­bly the most per­ti­nent ques­tion about chef Tom Ker­ridge’s glitzy new din­ing room in the 283-room, five-star Corinthia Ho­tel near White­hall in Lon­don. So let’s just cut to the chase. What if I told you the fish is the finest, fresh­est, most eth­i­cal brill co­cooned in a bat­ter so crisp, it feels like a master­class in whip­ping and dip­ping. Oh, and you eat the fish while Ker­ridge him­self, the man off the telly, am­bles jovially around his 90-cover fief­dom in his chef’s whites.

Plus, this fish ar­rives with a lit­tle pot of chips. Say, around 12 chips in all, but triple-cooked with an ethe­real, golden shim­mer, so that each one feels like a lit­tle earnest task at hand. A de­li­cious task, yes, but these are not flip­pantly scoffed chips like the gar­gan­tuan, soft, soggy and fra­grant pile you un­wrap from the lo­cal chippy, stink­ing glo­ri­ously of malt, newsprint and Fri­day night. No, these are spe­cial, once-in-a-life­time chips flanked by three del­i­cate schooners of chunky tartare, pease pud­ding and the Matson spiced sauce pre­vi­ously seen at Ker­ridge’s two Miche­lin­starred Buck­ing­hamshire pub, The Hand and Flow­ers, and which I’ll be so bold as to iden­tify as a prim Food

At­mos­phere ○

Ser­vice ○ The Corinthia, 10a Northum­ber­land Av­enue, Lon­don WC2, 0207 321 3244. About £60 a head à la carte; set lunch and pre-/post-the­atre menu, £24 for two cour­ses, £29.50 for three; all plus drinks and ser­vice

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