There is little I love more than a perfect pear; buttery, sweet, ever so slightly grainy – and a king on its throne when sitting on a hunk of salty cheese. Pear trees are common enough here in Britain, but the perfect pear is still elusive, with under-ripe fruit often the norm on shop shelves. But worry not: less than perfect pears can be transformed. In today’s cheesecake, they don a robe of amber caramel; in the cookies, a firmish texture helps them stand up against white chocolate. And if you’re lucky enough to come across that royal perfect pear, just gobble it up right away – or make my pear, stem ginger and sesame cake.