Rachel Roddy

Sides to cel­e­brate

The Guardian - Feast - - News -

Prep Cook Serves 10 min 20 min 6-8

1.2kg chard

50ml vine­gar

2 bay leaves

50g but­ter, plus more for greas­ing and adding at the end 30ml olive oil

1 red onion, peeled and sliced

1 gar­lic clove, peeled and sliced

1 pinch red chilli flakes 12 an­chovy fil­lets (op­tional)

50g flour

A grat­ing of nut­meg Salt and black pep­per A dozen or so pit­ted black olives

100g parme­san Dry bread­crumbs

Pick over the chard, trim any tough ends, cut the leaves away from the stems and cut the stems into 2-3cm pieces.

Plunge the leaves into a pan of boil­ing wa­ter for three min­utes, then lift from the wa­ter and drain. Add the vine­gar and bay leaves to the wa­ter, bring back to a boil, add the stems, sim­mer for eight min­utes, then lift out. Keep 500ml of the cook­ing wa­ter.

In a fry­ing pan, sauté the onion in the but­ter and oil un­til soft. Add the gar­lic, chilli and six of the an­chovies (if us­ing), and fry gen­tly un­til the an­chovies dis­in­te­grate.

Add the chard stems and stir again, then sprin­kle over the flour and cook for an­other minute. Now add the re­served cook­ing wa­ter slowly, stir­ring all the time, un­til the sauce is as thick as dou­ble cream – you may not need all the liq­uid. Stir in a lit­tle nut­meg and taste for salt and pep­per.

Heat the oven to 180C (160C fan)/gas 4 and but­ter an oven­proof dish. Pour half the mix­ture into the dish, cover with chard leaves, dot over the olives and re­main­ing an­chovies, then pour over the rest of the mix­ture.

Sprin­kle with parme­san and bread­crumbs, dot with more but­ter and bake for 20 min­utes. Prep Cook Serves 10 min 20 min 4

750g radic­chio – ideally long tre­viso, but round chiog­gia, or 500g radic­chio and 250g white chicory will do

4 tbsp olive oil 150g pancetta or ba­con, cut in strips, plus ex­tra, diced, for sprin­kling (op­tional) Salt and pep­per

Trim the end of the radic­chio and pull away any dam­aged leaves. Cut long radic­chio in half, or the round ver­sion into quar­ters, and make two deep cuts into the root end. Wash in cold wa­ter and dry.

In a pan large enough to fit ev­ery­thing in one layer snugly, warm the oil and fry the pancetta or ba­con over a low heat, so the ba­con fat melts and siz­zles, but doesn’t brown.

Add the radic­chio, turn it a cou­ple of times to coat it in fat, turn the heat down to low, cover and cook, turn­ing twice, un­til the radic­chio feels ten­der at the root – about 20 min­utes.

Sea­son, turn again, then lift ev­ery­thing on to a serv­ing plate. Sprin­kle with more crisped-up pancetta or ba­con, if you like. Prep Cook Serves

1 large red cab­bage 75g but­ter

3 tbsp olive oil

1 large onion, peeled and finely sliced

2 heaped tbsp soft brown mus­co­v­ado su­gar 1 large cook­ing ap­ple 3 tbsp red-wine vine­gar Salt and black pep­per 200ml wa­ter or beef stock

100ml red wine

Heat the oven to 150C (130C fan)/gas 2. Cut the cab­bage into quar­ters, dis­card the outer leaves, cut away the hard cen­tral core and shred each quar­ter finely.

In a large pan, gen­tly melt the but­ter and oil over a mod­er­ate flame, add the sliced onion and fry un­til soft and translu­cent.

Add the su­gar and cab­bage to the pan and stir well to coat. Quar­ter the ap­ple, core but do not peel, chop it into lit­tle chunks, add to the pan, and stir again.

Add the vine­gar, salt and black pep­per, stir and cover. Cook over a medium flame for 15 min­utes. Add the wa­ter and red wine, put the pan in the oven and roast for two hours. Prep Cook Serves 10 min 20 min 8 10 min 20 min 6-8 1 savoy cab­bage 50ml olive oil 50g but­ter

50ml white wine, ver­mouth or wa­ter 100g roasted, peeled chest­nuts Grated nut­meg Salt and black pep­per

Quar­ter the cab­bage, cut away the hard core, then shred roughly.

In a large fry­ing pan, warm the oil and but­ter, then add the cab­bage and cook gen­tly, toss­ing and turn­ing, un­til it wilts.

Add a lit­tle wa­ter or wine, and let it bub­ble for a few min­utes.

Crum­ble the chest­nuts into the pan, grate over some nut­meg, grind some black pep­per and a pinch of salt, stir and serve.

Read Rachel’s Tales from an Ital­ian Kitchen on p24

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