Grace Dent ‘This is less a pud­ding than a ru­mi­na­tion on the farce of main­tain­ing a small bot­tom’

The Guardian - Feast - - News -

On the train home from The Folke­stone Wine Com­pany, I de­cided that one Christ­mas I will pen a niche toi­let book (po­ten­tial au­di­ence: me) that de­notes the emo­tions of restau­rant crit­ics for which we do not have words. Think The Mean­ing of Liff, but writ­ten by a woman in dan­ger of gout.

A Boswell Glop, for ex­am­ple, is a restau­rant that makes you an­grier and hun­grier in 11 in­cre­men­tal, foam-fes­tooned cour­ses. Fin­dango’s Reach is a ter­ri­ble, mega-hyped won­der-restau­rant that ex­ists only in the hy­per­bole of its mar­ket­ing in­tern. And a Snuffly-Ligget is a place so im­per­fectly per­fect – just like The Folke­stone Wine Com­pany – that I want to ditch the re­view to pro­tect it from id­iots.

This is a small, 26-seat, in­de­pen­dent labour of love up a pretty street near Folke­stone har­bour. It has a door­bell that bings as you en­ter to alert one of the two mem­bers of staff. David Hart, the chef, and front-of-house Polly Pleasence sell good Euro­pean wines by the bot­tle and glass – ro­bust, smooth and fizzy ones; they’ll knock you up a good ne­groni, too. There’s some­thing for ev­ery­one, plus, to com­ple­ment the booz­ing, a pleas­ing menu served on mis­matched crock­ery. Hart has Food

At­mos­phere ○

Ser­vice ○

5 Church Street, Folke­stone, Kent, 01303 249952. Open Thurs, Fri & Sun, noon-3pm (4.30pm Sun), Weds-Fri 5.3010pm; all day Sat, noon-11pm. About £30 a head, plus drinks and ser­vice

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