There’s some­thing about Mary

A ma­jor new film about Mary, Queen of Scots, will put the cas­tles and bat­tle­fields of her tragic final days back in the spot­light. Peter Ross fol­lows in her blood-soaked foot­steps

The Guardian - Travel - - Front Page -

Scot­land to re­vamp its Mary, Queen of Scots trail. A fine op­por­tu­nity, then, to fol­low in her foot­steps.

Ed­in­burgh is the place to start. Mary feels very present in Scot­land’s cap­i­tal. On dis­play in the Scot­tish Na­tional Por­trait Gallery is per­haps her most fa­mous por­trait – raven­ishly re­gal in a black gown, right hand pale on a blood-red cloth – as well as oils of the many pow­er­ful men who worked against her in­ter­ests to ad­vance their own.

The Na­tional Mu­seum of Scot­land (Saoirse Ro­nan vis­ited in prepa­ra­tion for the role) has a num­ber of ob­jects as­so­ci­ated with Mary, in­clud­ing a sil­ver and ebony cru­ci­fix that might, just might, have been hers. Many of the queen’s pos­ses­sions were de­stroyed or dis­persed fol­low­ing her death, lest they be­come relics – and the fo­cus of Catholic re­bel­lion; those that re­main throb with haunted glam­our.

The pres­ence of Mary can be felt most pal­pa­bly at the Palace of Holy­rood­house. The of­fi­cial res­i­dence of the present queen sits at the foot of the Royal Mile; the pri­vate apart­ments once in­hab­ited by Mary are open to vis­i­tors. They are fur­nished as they would have been in the

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