In praise of … fondue
The fondue is back and Britain is seeing a resurgence of a 1970s dinnerparty set piece. It’s the fondue’s potential as a sharing dish and conversation piece that is part of the attraction, say researchers from Oxford University, along with the comforting nature of all that melted cheese.
In the 1930s, fondue became the national Swiss dish and was championed by the Swiss Cheese Union as part of a campaign for the “spiritual defence of Switzerland”. Could the fact that the dish comes from a small thriving nation outside the EU be appealing to the UK’s post-Brexit fears?
Its origin is traced to isolated communities who had limited access to fresh food in the colder months so used old bits of cheese and bread, turning them into a rich, warming meal with the help of some local high-acidity white wine. The classic is usually a mix of a nutty meltable cheese such as comté, emmenthal or gruyère with a creamier one such as fontina, reblochon or port salut.