The Herald - The Herald Magazine
Cycling routes in Mallorca
AS I pull out of one of the countless switchbacks on the legendary Sa Calobra cliffs, the wheels of my bike give a satisfying whirr and I tell myself I’d better enjoy every moment of this electrifying 9.5km descent, as I will soon have to get all the way back to the top.
I pull over at the top of Coll dels Reis mountain pass to take in the sheer magnitude of the drop ahead; the road winding its way endlessly downwards with cyclists as small as ants rolling into the sparkling bay below. As the road steepens and my speed picks up, I can see the pain etched on the faces of cyclists bravely tackling the ascent, which rises 670 metres with an average seven per cent gradient.
But all the effort will be worth it. After refuelling with a plate of pasta at one of the waterfront restaurants in the tiny village of Sa Calobra, I clip-clop in my ill-suited cycling shoes through a slippery narrow tunnel along the cliff edge. I’m blinded by the afternoon sunshine as I emerge and, when my vision returns, I discover a secluded beach lapped by gentle waters and hidden by cliff walls. It feels like something straight out of an Enid Blyton mystery. With the daunting ascent awaiting me, I only have time for a quick paddle before getting back on my bike and starting the slow crawl back up.
As my thigh muscles burn with each increasingly tougher turn, I remind myself that, once over the top, I have a gentle ride back to the seafront Iberostar Playa de Muro hotel (rooms start from £133 a night) and the luxuries of the spa, with its range of massages to rub and pummel my aching legs.
I park my bike in the hotel’s 1,200 capacity cycling garage before heading to the swimming pool where a gentle dip helps my legs begin to forget the hardship I’ve put them through. Soon, it’s time for dinner in the hotel’s Tramuntana buffet restaurant, which offers everything from sushi to pizza. But it’s the paella that re-energises me and makes my mind wander back along the twisty roads up the mountains as I begin planning my next day in the saddle.
Here are three of Mallorca’s greatest cycle routes.
1. SA CALOBRA
Mallorca is a big draw for road cyclists from across Europe, and Sa Calobra is the main attraction. The ascent along a well-paved road made up of 26 hairpin bends with gradients reaching 10 per cent makes for a classic climb and a hugely enjoyable descent.
Huerzeler Bicycle Holidays, based at the Iberostar Playa de Muro, can set you up with everything you need to get on the road, including a range of bikes and e-bikes, route suggestions and much-appreciated energy food, to put in your jersey pocket as you head off on your ride. Sa Calobra is 55km from Playa de Muro, an easy ride back but a considerable ascent, so to make the day easier there’s the option to use drop-off transport services, reducing the ride distance and ensuring the day remains challenging without being exhausting.
2. PORT DE SOLLER
Cycling from Palma to the quaint valley town of Soller and its sister town Port de Soller also involves a ride up to a mountain pass with wonderful views.
Far less challenging than Sa Calobra, it has gentler gradients and the top section remains mostly car-free, as vehicles tend to use the tunnel short-cut. Soller is a traditional Spanish sandstone town with a beautiful church and town square, and on arrival at Port de Soller, where you share a road with trams, you’re welcomed with a beautiful view of the bay, filled with yachts and powerboats. Located 36km from Palma, the port is a perfect place to stop and enjoy seafood in one of the numerous waterfront restaurants, before choosing your route back to the capital – either by retracing your ride or by the picturesque Valldemossa village, known for its luscious oranges.
3. PALMA PROMENADE CYCLE PATH
Perfect for a rest day from the mountains or as a family ride, Palma’s waterfront has a 15km car-free cycle path and promenade, which is completely flat.
Hiring a bike from Philipp’s Bike Team, set off from the Iberostar Playa de Palma (rooms start from £236 a night), heading along the wide, car-free road before joining the cycle path which winds along the waterfront, passing marinas and beaches. It’s an easy and enjoyable way to reach the centre of Palma. The path arrives next to the Gothic 13th-century cathedral, where you can explore the old quarter of Mallorca’s capital with its 10th-century Arab baths and historic walls.
Along the cycle path, there are countless opportunities to stop for an ice cream, lunch or a dip in the sea at one of the inviting beaches.