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A foodie trip to Spain
FOOD is a central pillar of Spanish life so it came as no surprise that my first taste of Valencia after landing at the airport for a long weekend was a seafood lunch that lasted nearly three hours. I wasn’t complaining as it featured the freshest seafood and the promenade restaurant’s views to the pristine Malvarrosa beach and Mediterranean beyond was a world away from the rainy Glasgow I’d left behind.
One of many restaurants along the Paseo Maritimo de Valencia promenade, the contemporary El Coso set the bar high and kicked off a visit to Spain’s third-largest city which would involve cycling, sightseeing, sailing and, it goes without saying, eating. I do like the European approach to food – meals are not just for sustenance, they are social occasions, a time to savour not just the food but the art of conversation too.
Foodies will be in heaven as Valencia has more than 2,500 restaurants, ranging from Michelin-starred eateries, fine-dining establishments and tapas bars to those serving up traditional Valencian food. Add to the mix an array of global cuisine and there’s something for everyone.
But we would have to wait until Sunday for paella – something we discussed at length as we tucked into luscious prawns caught by local fishermen. Proper paella, say Valencians, is saffron-flavoured rice served with chicken or rabbit – or both – with vegetables such as green beans. No fish or shellfish, and to add chorizo is an absolute no-no. And another thing – it’s only eaten at lunch.
Thoughts of paella faded as we walked off lunch along the promenade. It’s not a typical seafront and although there are shops you won’t see any buckets and spades. This is much more elegant and upmarket – more chic tailoring and high heels than T-shirts and flip-flops.
The walk set us up for a bracing sail on a catamaran. Any cobwebs were blown away as we left Juan Carlos I Royal Marina, a city landmark that has twice been the setting for the America’s Cup. It was surprisingly warm at sea but good to get back on dry land as the previously calm water was getting choppy.
After dinner in the old town our host thought it would be a good idea to introduce us to the Agua de Valencia cocktail, made from cava or champagne and orange juice, served in pitchers. Sitting in the wonderfully kitsch Cafe de la Horas it seemed like a good idea and after several pitchers we called it a night.
A 10-mile bike ride the following morning, however, wasn’t particularly appealing when it became apparent that these cocktails are quite lethal. But I’m a trooper and once I’d stopped wobbling about it became clear that this is an excellent way to see Valencia. Since Valencia is largely flat, even a couch potato like me didn’t struggle too much.
Starting the tour in the Turia Gardens, one of the largest urban parks in Spain, was an opportunity to see the city slowly come to life. Jogging, cycling, football, tennis, basketball, yoga, dog-walking, the occasional Segway tour – there’s room for everyone to do their own thing and they like to do it early.
The park was once the Turia river and the city rather cleverly converted it into the space it is today following serious flooding problems in the 1950s. It’s a cultural destination in its own right as the gardens are crossed by 18 bridges from different periods, each with its own architectural style and story to tell.
From this open space we headed for the Barrio del Carmen district, Valencia’s historical centre with the Plaza de la Virgen, Plaza de la Reina and cathedral at its heart. We parked the bikes and made a beeline for the cathedral, which is home to a chalice that many believe to be the real Holy Grail. Also on the itinerary was a visit to the restored Church of San Nicolas, described by experts as the Valencian Sistine Chapel. The Plaza de la Virgen is a lively square, full of life and atmosphere, and home to the Basilica de la Virgen de los Desamparados with its blue oval-shaped dome and frescos by Baroque painter Antonio Palomino. I’d had my fill of culture, however, and wanted to explore the labyrinthine cobbled streets off the beaten track.
Sadly, those hidden lanes with their bars and cafes will have to wait until I return – there simply wasn’t enough time. Also off the menu was a visit to Valencia’s Central Market, which I was hoping would
be a highlight of my trip. My mouth was watering at the prospect of the colourful food displays and Modernist architecture for which it is famous.
Instead I had to make do with another colourful food display – the oranges for which Valencia is also famous. There are trees everywhere, even in the streets. Don’t be tempted by their hanging fruit though – these oranges are purely decorative.
Next up was the City of Arts and Sciences designed by local architect Santiago Calatrava. It includes an IMAX cinema, Europe’s largest aquarium, the Principe Felipe Science Museum – used as a location for an episode of Doctor Who – and the avant-garde opera house, Palau de les Arts Reina Sofia.
Feeling jaded after an energetic day and the events of the previous evening, I bowed out after dinner at a lovely restaurant in the Ruzafa district, one of city’s trendiest, and left the younger members of the group to hit L’Umbracle Terraza, a nightclub back at the City of Arts and Sciences.
AFTER two days in Valencia I was getting used to non-stop sunshine but a quick look out of the window on Sunday morning made me pinch myself. It was chucking it down. Over breakfast we reckoned a planned visit to Bioparc Valencia – the city’s zoo – would be cancelled but our intrepid guide decided a little rain wouldn’t stop us in our tracks.
This was June, so naturally this party of peely-wally Scots had failed to pack suitable outerwear. We were in Spain – there would be sun on tap. Yes, Valencia basks in sunshine around 300 days of the year. This wasn’t one of them. Arriving at the zoo – where the barriers are practically invisible and the animals are immersed in a habitat similar to their natural one – we were drenched by the time we even reached the entrance.
I’m not a fan of zoos but was prepared to make an exception with this one given its highly-regarded zoological credentials. But the weather won the day and we moved back into the city. The rain followed us but we soldiered on, wishing we were as prepared as the intrepid Japanese tourists with their waterproofs and umbrellas.
We took respite in La Lonja, the gothic Silk Exchange building that is a Unesco World Heritage Site and worth a visit. This building, opposite Central Market, which sadly isn’t open on a Sunday, is one of the most famous civil Gothic monuments in Europe so I’m glad I saw it even though I was now soaked from head to toe.
There was good news, however, as it was time for lunch – paella. For this we were travelling a few miles out of the city to the Albufera Nature Park, home to the largest lake in Spain and one of the most important wetland areas in the Iberian Peninsula with rare species of wading birds, a rich variety of wildlife and rice fields.
The plan had been to cross the lake on a boat to the village of El Palmar for lunch but the weather put paid to that and we continued by road, the reward a Valencian paella that warmed the cockles of the heart. Joining lots of families in the restaurant was a joy and another reminder that eating should be a communal experience.
Valencia is a fantastic destination with sun, sea and sand, history, culture and a fascinating mix of architecture, if that’s your bag, plus a cracking choice of bars, restaurants and cafes. It’s vibrant and safe, with a compact centre that makes it easy to move around, an airport 10km away and a friendly welcome – perfect for a city break or a longer holiday. I’ll definitely be back … but next time I’ll stay off the cocktails.