The Herald Magazine - - etc RON MACKENNA EATING OUT -

Non Viet Hai’s fresh and vi­brant flavours are a buzz, says Ron, even if they can fade a bit too early

Stewed beef brisket sounded ap­petis­ing on the menu, promis­ing aro­matic herbs and vi­brant flavours. On the plate it’s just a dark and dense ex­pe­ri­ence.

Hard, too, to dis­tin­guish it from the caramelised pork belly and egg which should, on pa­per at least, zing with caramel fish sauce and co­conut juice. It is sim­ply stewed into one long, in­dis­tin­guish­able and rather or­di­nary flavour.

It’s fair to say that by the time we ar­rive at the not-siz­zling-any­more seafood plat­ter, the siz­zle has be­gun to dis­ap­pear from us too. This is an in­stantly fa­mil­iar con­coc­tion of the usual seafood sus­pects in a pale

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