Dundee re­dis­cov­ered Tay dream be­liev­ers

The Herald Magazine - - etc TRAVEL -

SNOOZE IN HIS­TORIC SUR­ROUND­INGS AT... HO­TEL IN­DIGO, LOWER DENS MILL

Twenty-five years ago, Dun­can Alexan­der left Dundee, but re­turned to set up his brew­ing busi­ness in a for­mer iron­works on the out­skirts of town. The re­gion’s min­eral-packed wa­ter, sim­i­lar to that used in Czech pil­sner, was a par­tic­u­lar draw. Tours (£12) run on week­ends, with an op­por­tu­nity for tast­ing ses­sions, and sev­eral beers are served at the V&A from taps made with re­cy­cled bar­ley hops. Visit 71brew­ing.com.

Cel­e­brat­ing Dundee’s in­dus­trial past and cre­ative present, this hip­ster-friendly ho­tel is a stylish rein­ven­tion of a for­mer li­nen mill. Al­though part of a chain, it has plenty of char­ac­ter; video games con­soles and copies of The Beano dec­o­rate the lobby, and clas­sics such as Ar­broath smok­ies and tat­tie scones ap­pear on the break­fast menu. It’s a 10-minute walk from the cen­tre of town, but easy to find thanks to its Ital­ianate bell tower. Rooms from £89. Visit ihg.com.

GRAB A SNEAKY DRINK AT... DRAFFENS SPEAKEASY, COUTTIE’S WYND

Along a cob­bled wynd filled with bins, an un­marked fire door leads to this Pro­hi­bi­tion era-themed speakeasy, which oc­cu­pies one of Dundee’s much-loved – and now de­funct – de­part­ment stores. Man­nequins in vin­tage at­tire lead pa­trons to a base­ment, where the sound of swing jazz and cock­tail shak­ers rings long into the night. Cock­tails around £8.

Visit vam.ac.uk/dundee, dundee.com and visits­cot­land.com

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