The Herald Magazine - - etc RON MACKENNA EATING OUT -

The sim­plest dishes were the best with great arancini and a good plate­ful of Apu­lian clas­sic

ONDINE 2 Ge­orge IV Bridge, Ed­in­burgh (0131 226 1888) Food: Fish High point: Skilled cook­ing of sim­ple dishes Low point: A bit pricey for lunch Score: 25/30

Low point: The side dishes are not the best. Score: 26/30

Queen Mar­garet Drive. There, the charm of Ester out front and Mau­r­izio in the open kitchen built up a tidal wave of good­will for the young cou­ple. Lots of fin­gers are there­fore crossed for this place. Re­ally, they needn’t be: the food’s good. Dif­fer­ent. The kitchen maybe still needs to re­lax and sea­son more, and lose a few of those baby toma­toes.

But some­thing new, brave and Ital­ian, run by an Ital­ian hus­band-and-wife team? Surely the magic restau­rant recipe.

If you know a restau­rant Ron should re­view, email ron­mackenna@fast­mail.fm

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