Seafood Im­pres­sive restau­rant for grown-ups that is reel­ing them in again and again

The Herald Magazine - - etc RON MACKENNA EATING OUT - GLAS­GOW

WHO knows ex­actly what age I was when I learned of the mar­vels of fish re­nam­ing. Young any­way, when the old man in our tiny kitchen tug­ging a stock­ing of skin from the tail of a fat-faced old monk­fish chuck­led at the raspy, sand­pa­pery sullen-look­ing dog­fish we had en­thu­si­as­ti­cally brought from the beach.

“You could sell that as rock salmon, in some restau­rants any­way,” he said. “And this,” he added, point­ing to the firm white monk­fish tail, “as prawn.”

He was a lover of all fish, was the old man, though we kids re­coiled at the mon­sters of the deep that scut­tled around the empty bath or were ex­pertly fil­leted on the slab, but he wouldn’t have recog­nised the name stone bass. Sim­ply be­cause I don’t think the mar­ket­ing peo­ple had in­vented it by then.

Shade-fish, salmon-bass or even mea­gre ap­par­ently not be­ing glam­orous enough any­more. But he would have ap­proved of what the Fish Peo­ple Cafe have done to it tonight. Seared at such in­tense heat that the skin is crisped, the meat un­der­neath runs from an ap­petis­ing golden to creamy and juicy white. Debs has just said how much she is en­joy­ing it and the deep, dark spinach it sits on. The fish I’m eat­ing is from the ac­tual gen­uine sea and not farmed – though fish have been farmed since pre-Ro­man times.

My John Dory was landed at Fraser­burgh; two more juicy fil­lets, lightly browned, a sea of peas and a spiky, in­ter­est­ing masala spiced shrimp but­ter to fire it pun­chily into life.

Flaw­less. There were fat crumbed and deep-fried ba­tons of monk­fish to start, more glam­orous than prawn nowa­days, then a smoky fish­cake with pa­prika mayo, lime and ca­per berries.

Luca pol­ished off a bowl of mar­i­nated an­chovies, boosted, I sup­pose, by the Fish Peo­ple Cafe kitchen with the ad­di­tion of chilli le­mon and pars­ley. A very good and very con­fi­dently pre­pared meal.

I’ve re­viewed this cafe be­fore, squeezed in as it is be­side the un­der­ground sta­tion on Scot­land Street, all glass front, pol­ished wood and on this chill Novem­ber school night warmed by a

The Fish Peo­ple Cafe

Ron Mackenna en­joyed “a very good and very con­fi­dently pre­pared meal” at the Fish Peo­ple Cafe

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