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The Herald Magazine - - etc RON MACKENNA EATING OUT -

Prawn pi­lafs. Peat-smoked had­dock and potato gratin, salsa verdes, pork bel­lies. Not what you ex­pect. 4/5

any­one wear­ing dun­ga­rees, ex­cept in my mind of course, but I’m think­ing al­lot­ments grow­ing whole­some stuff, peo­ple out eat­ing de­cent stuff.

I’m not drink­ing but I’m start­ing to think that if I were I could eas­ily while away a good few hours in here com­pletely shut away not just from the out­side world but pos­si­bly the whole mad, bad 21st cen­tury. Ex­cept on the plate, of course.

Re­as­sur­ingly the car­rot, cele­riac, pump­kin seed and ap­ple salad that has been sup­plied for the sum of £3.50 is a bowl­ful of shred­ded, dressed and tex­tured fresh­ness. Even the rose­mary roast pota­toes at £2.75 turn out to be a de­cent ef­fort made in that lit­tle square kitch­enette where the bell rings and the hatch fills when­ever the chefs have done their thang.

It’s not flaw­less, mind. While the lamb in the lamb shoul­der lasagne comes in large, moist and unc­tu­ous chunks, there’s not enough cheese to make any im­pact and the re­heat­ing of the pasta is frankly a lit­tle bit patchy. Is lasagne ever a good idea on a menu un­less it’s all go­ing to sell from the tray within a rel­a­tively short time of it com­ing from the oven?

There wasn’t a sin­gle drop ei­ther, that I could see any­way, of the promised salsa

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