FOOD

I brave the steady rush. Even then it’s hard to get a seat at one of the tables and simple, utilitarian and not hugely comfortable when I do.

But still better to experience the Arabic shawarama on site – to understand the crispness of the fresh flatbread, its all-round juiciness. That crispness goes when it’s placed in a takeaway box.

I know all this because of course I’ve now been more than once. And will be back again. And probably again.

If you know a restaurant Ron should review, email ronmackenna@fastmail.fm

EATING IN Gnocchi, Girolles & Barra Cockles by Roy Brett plus Sumayya

Usmani’s Potato Chickpea & Dill Chaat