The Herald - The Herald Magazine
The walk Three magnificent bridges
Location: Dalmeny, Midlothian Grade: Easy woodland and shore walk Distance: 5 miles/8km
Time: 2½-3 hours
Sitting on a bench in Dalmeny village eating our lunch in glorious autumn sunshine, my wife and I agreed that life was not too bad. In fact the day could hardly have been better. We had picked a lovely walk that gave us three magnificent bridges, two historic houses and an ancient church – not to mention a fine stretch of shoreline and superb colouring on the trees.
The start of the walk is dominated by the three great bridges spanning the Forth at Queensferry. The striking cantilever design of the rail bridge soaring directly above us is instantly recognisable; built in 1890, it is still in regular use. A little to the west is the first road bridge, opened in 1964 and now in well-earned semi-retirement, open to buses, cyclists and walkers. Further west again is the new Queensferry Crossing, its tracery of cable stays sparkling in the sunshine, clear evidence that structures can be beautiful as well as functional.
The walk follows the shore path through the mature woodland of Dalmeny Estate, rounding Hound Point to reveal a startling sweep of golden sand, and beyond this the humps of Cramond Island (reachable by causeway at low tide) and, further out, Inchcolm with its ruined abbey.
You pass Barnbougle Castle, almost coyly hidden in the trees. It’s more of a castellated house, built in 1881 for the 5th Earl of Rosebery, who later became prime minister. The trees suddenly end on the right to reveal, across a great sweep of lawn, Dalmeny House, the main home of the Roseberys. It was designed by William Wilkins and completed in 1814.
The superb proportions of the house are immediately apparent and it sits at the centre of a designed landscape which is equally harmonious. On the lawn is Joseph Boehm’s bold statue of a horse called King Tom. He was a notable stud horse in the 1850s and 60s, siring many winners of classic races. Dalmeny House has limited summer visiting hours but is worth the trip as it contains wonderful collections of furniture, tapestries and porcelain.
Follow the estate road through fields and woodland. Although it is tarmac it is very pleasant walking in such surroundings. Cross the B924 at Chapel Gate and continue on the minor road (now part of the NCR1 cycle route) to Dalmeny village, with houses set around an attractive open space. St Cuthbert’s Church dates
back to the 12th century and is said to be the most complete example of Romanesque architecture in Scotland.
A short walk out of Dalmeny leads at first to another cycleway paralleling the railway, then you swoop down a long flight of steps which land you back on the road near the start. This is Hawes Pier, from where the ferry used to cross the river before the road bridge opened. It is now the start point for boat trips to Inchcolm and other islands in the Firth, giving a great view of all the bridges.