The Herald - The Herald Magazine
Japan Discovering the delights that await Scotland’s rugby fans
THE Japanese bullet train delivers on the promise of a punctual as well as dynamic entrance at Shinagawa. The morning began with a relaxed three-hour journey to Shin-Kobe station, after displaying the essential Japan rail pass I was able to relax on a bright, clear morning which offered incredible views of Mount Fuji in all its splendour.
The only activity was a trolley offering snacks and drinks as well as the occasional smoker leaving their seat to enter designated rooms for a cigarette. There wasn’t a sound from the trains and passengers sat silently, allowing me to nap before I arrived in the centre of Japan.
Visitors immediately experience a gentler, slower pace in the port city of Kobe as they look out into the untroubled waters of the Setouchi Sea against the spectacular Rokko Mountain range.
Japan’s sixth largest city is part of the Nada-Gogo which translates as the five areas of Nada encompassing Kobe and other sake-producing regions. Kobe has a lot to offer travelling supporters at the Rugby World Cup later this year where Scotland will play their second match of the tournament on September 30 against Samoa at Misaki Park Stadium.
An essential experience while here is to enjoy a sample of the famous Kobe beef. I met my Japanese guide Haruka, a native of the city, at Teppanyaki Kitano in ANA Crowne Plaza, which is a short walk from the station. Bags and belongings can be stored in lockers here if you are travelling in for the day.
After being presented with a cool bottle of craft beer from the Rokko Brewery I was introduced to the head chef who sharpened his knife before slicing through the marbled meat like a lump of butter, cutting it into small bite-sized cubes to cook.
By the time the delectable dish was ready the smell was making my mouth water and stomach rumble. The beef immediately melts in the mouth with a sweet, savoury taste and tender texture. It is best-served medium with a dash of salt, soy sauce, and mustard, say locals.
Before the trip I organised a visit to the Moss Garden temple. Known locally as Kokedera, a visit requires a hand-written letter and modest payment at least one month in advance. After being asked to remove my shoes and light a candle at the Zen temple we were asked to sit and pray or reflect for a moment before being invited to walk beside 120 varieties of lush green moss. The Japanese appreciation of a plant that many Westerners would overlook is viewed as honouring the silent and determined development of nature. These green plants are admired for their quiet resolve, beauty, and imperfection which suggests much about the Japanese way of life. The ancient design of the gardens was to encourage finding a sense of peace as well as appreciation.
After a hedonistic time in America during the mid-1970s, David Bowie spent time here absorbing the otherworldly surroundings, capturing a sense of it on the second side on his 1977 album Heroes which featured the instrumental track Moss Garden.
With the freshness of the morning providing inspiration I jumped on the first of two buses, arriving in the centre of Kyoto by lunchtime. Undoubtedly this is a place with much charm and presence; significantly Bowie also travelled here exactly 40 years ago to film an advert for sake and was reduced to tears by the tranquil surroundings. The advert featured another Japanese inspired track Fujimoto San, later retitled Crystal Japan.
Atami is gateway to the Izu Peninsula which sits on the Philippines tectonic plate and was originally a volcanic island that has drifted north and collided with the Japanese mainland from the peninsula. This explained the subtropical climate which was already in the low 30s on the morning of my visit.
Atami translates as “hot ocean” and is a popular seaside and holiday resort going through something of a resurgence. One reason for that is access to natural hot springs and, on arrival, I discovered there is even a hot spring foot-bath for wornout travellers. I found it a revitalising and refreshing experience before meeting up with my guide for the day Tony Everitt. From the port, we sailed to Hatsushima Island which translates “First Island” and is the first in a long chain of largely volcanic islands that string southwards. Hatsushima was a major domestic holiday destination during the high growth and bubble economic periods between the 1950s and 1990s.
After a journey of about 30 minutes, we arrived on Hatsushima and watched fishermen catch a haul of fresh fish to supply the restaurants on the island.
After lunch, we returned to Atami where we visited the Museum of Art in the plush surroundings of the Zuiunkyo Garden. The museum has over 3,500 items including paintings, crafts, sculptures and national treasures including Red and White Plum Blossoms by Ogata Korin.
Before heading back to Haneda Airport for the long journey home I visited Atami’s Kinomiya Shrine where, for over 2,000 years, people have come to pray and seek spiritual guidance. Here resides the largest tree in Honshu where, as tradition dictates, every nationality, ethnicity and those of all faiths and none take a lap around the trunk of the tree.
Watching the ritual of people walking around the thick trunk while praying or expressing some form of hope for the future felt like a fitting way to end my Japanese odyssey.