Scottish panoramas A fascinating bridge reached through a spellbinding fairy trail

SUSAN SWARBRICK

SCOTLAND has no dearth of remarkable bridges – be it feats of engineering, ingenuity or sheer marvel – yet it is fair to say there are none quite like this one. Depending on the angle you view it from, Craigmin Bridge can play tricks on the eyes. Sometimes it looks like a cross-section sheared from a giant catacomb, others a troubled, skeletal face peering out from the leafy vegetation that creeps up from the sloping banks of the Burn of Letterfourie.

Craigmin Bridge stands within the grounds of Letterfourie House, a Georgian mansion not far from the

Moray fishing town of Buckie. It dates to 1773 and was once part of the main carriage drive to the house. The bridge is believed to be the work of Robert Adam, a Scottish neoclassical architect who designed Letterfourie House. However, no drawings or documentation survive to confirm this.

Variously described as “curious” and “wildly picturesque”, Craigmin

Bridge has a striking multi-tiered design. There is a lower, single-arched span supporting the two semi-circular arches and smaller, segmental arch above. The bridge is rubble-built and among its many fascinating features is a doorway in the north-west corner which leads to a small room built into the walls.

The inspiration for this unusual piece of architecture is subject to speculation. One plausible theory is that it came down to simple mechanics with the bridge built on top of a previous single-span structure, creating an intriguing and charming design. This makes sense given the suggestion that the lower section of an original bridge, while suitable for foot traffic, may have been too steep for a horse-drawn carriage to navigate.

One oft-repeated legend is that Bonnie Prince Charlie hid beneath the bridge while fleeing the Redcoats but given the timings, if there is a grain of truth, it must refer to an earlier crossing on this site as the Battle of Culloden predates Craigmin Bridge by some 27 years.

Today, reaching Craigmin Bridge is a magical experience, following the

Fairy Walk from the nearby village of Drybridge, a thoughtfully designed trail with tiny doors in the trees, miniature wooden houses and even a dragon.

Exploring Scotland’s Heritage: Aberdeen and North-East Scotland (1996) by Ian Shepherd and The District of Moray: An Illustrated Architectural Guide (1987) by Charles McKean both refer to Craigmin Bridge.

WHY DO YOU GO THERE?

It is a stunning part of the world, like Scotland on steroids and the weather is better. I love the New Zealand people: they have their heads screwed on. I find the Kiwis humane, laidback and right-on in a way that isn’t offensive.

HOW DID YOU DISCOVER IT?

I first went in the 1970s when I was in the merchant navy. I was blown away by New Zealand. It got under my skin. I was there quite a lot between 1976 and 1981, although I never got up to Bay of Islands – the nearest was Auckland.

The next time I visited was two years ago when I was filming Paul and Nick’s Big Food Trip, the TV series with Paul Rankin. My wife Julia knew New Zealand as she had spent a gap year there and has friends in Auckland.

We had a holiday before filming began and drove up to Bay of

Islands. Paul came with us as a sort of third wheel, which sounds slightly odd, but he’s my best mate and I’ve known him for 25 years.

We stayed in the seaside town of Paihia and caught the ferry to Russell, a beautiful, old-fashioned place. Unbeknown to everyone, prior to flying out, I had gone to the jewellers and bought a ring.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE MEMORY?

When we arrived in Russell, Paul headed off for a swim as Jules and I sauntered down to the beach, where the sun was shimmering off the crystal-clear waters. I got down on bended knee and asked Jules to marry me. She said yes.

It was all very romantic, then suddenly Paul appeared and said: “Right, Nairn. You should get in the water. I can show you some exercises. It will be good for your back.” I replied: “Err, Paul, I’m kind of in the middle of something …” He stopped and asked: “Oh, is that a ring?” Jules and I had our engagement lunch in a restaurant on the beach – with Paul, of course – then afterwards toured Bay of Islands.

We spent the next six weeks filming all over the North Island and South Island. We loved the Craggy Range Winery near Napier – it is like Glen Coe with sun. An amazing thing about New Zealand is you can drive 20 miles and the landscape changes. There are plains, mountains, oceans and massive agriculture with soft fruit, avocados and kiwis.

SUM IT UP IN FIVE WORDS.

Stimulating. Laidback. Warm. Welcoming. Extraordinary.

WHAT TRAVEL SPOT IS ON YOUR POST-LOCKDOWN WISH LIST?

We love city breaks. We were meant to visit Palma, Majorca, but had to cancel. Barcelona is next on our list as soon as we feel safe to travel.

Nick Nairn and Dougie Vipond present The Great Food Guys, BBC Scotland, Thursdays, 8pm. His restaurant Nick’s on Henderson Street in Bridge of Allan reopens on August 7. Call 01786 831616 or visit nicksonhendersonst.com

SUSAN SWARBRICK

Glen Tanar lies south-west of Aboyne, where a public road runs to Glen Tanar House and the estate visitor centre.

From a car park, paths and tracks follow the Water of Tanar through the pine woods and out onto open moorland beyond the Half Way Hut.

The track continues in a more southerly direction beyond the old farm house at Etnach and passes the ruined Shiel of Glentanar that was burned down in 1992.

Just before the track sweeps round to the remains of the Shiel, a separate track crosses the river via a new bridge, and climbs the north-west ridge of Mount Keen.

Just beyond, above the rocky hollow known locally as the ‘korlach’, (the OS call it Corrach for some reason), another path forks to the left to wind up to Mount Keen’s stony summit.

Approx Time: 6-8 hours

Route: From the car park cross the bridge, turn right and follow the marked footpath to ‘The Mounth road to Glen Esk’. After a while another sign points to the right and this path runs through the pinewoods beside the Water of Tanar for about 5km. Leave the woods for the open glen, crossing the river twice. At the third crossing (GR: NO 407896) over a new bridge, ascend the Mounth Road by a broad track. Diverge SE up the path to Mount Keen’s summit. Return by the same route.

BALLATER WALK TWO CONACHCRAIG

This eastern neighbour of dark Lochnagar is a Corbett (a hill between 2500ft and 2999ft), and an easy Corbett at that. Its ascent shares the same popular route to Lochnagar from Alltna-giubhsaich as far as the high point of the track that runs between the Spittal of Glenmuick and Glen Gelder.

At this point the Lochnagar track, and the crowds, veer away to the west to climb up to the bealach below Meikle Pap.

The route to Conachcraig goes in the opposite direction and

follows a less used path that wriggles its way up the heather and boulder slopes towards the Corbett’s summit.

It’s well worthwhile crossing the broad ridge to Conachcraig’s slightly lower north summit, if only for the much better view it offers towards neighbouring Lochnagar.

From the main summit you’re at too tight an angle to see much of Lochnagar, other than its rather dull Meikle Pap slopes, but from Conachcraig’s 850m top you get a much better view of the mountain.

From here you get a glimpse into the great corrie that is such a feature of Lochnagar and the cliffs which make it one of the principal winter climbing venues in Scotland.

ROUTE Map:

Start/Finish:

Distance: Approx Route:

Allt-na-giubsaich. Take the path that is signposted to Lochnagar through the pines and once clear of the trees continue on the main track until it reaches the high point between Glen Muick and Glen Gelder. Leave the path to the E and follow the narrower path directly to the summit of Conachcraig. Cross the broad ridge to the 862m summit for better views of Lochnagar then return to the shallow bealach between the two southern tops. Descend SE from the bealach down to Allt-na-giubsaich and the track back to the Spittal of Glenmuick

ACCOMMODATION

There are numerous hotels, B/B and guest houses in the village and surrounding area. For more information check out: www. visitballater.com/places-to-stay/

Hostel: Ballater Hostel, Bridge Square: www.ballater-hostel.com; tel: 01339 753752.

Campsite: Ballater Caravan and Camping Park, Anderson Road: www.ballatercaravanpark.com; tel: 01339 755727.

Outdoor Shop: The Outdoor

Store, 43 Bridge Street, www. braemarmountainsports.com; tel: 01339 753878.