The Herald - The Herald Magazine
Scotland re-opens: A guide to making the most of easing of lockdown
MONDAY MARKS THE BIG EASING OF LOCKDOWN RESTRICTIONS, SO HERE’S OUR FAVOURITE FAMILY DAYS, RELAXING BEER GARDENS, EXHIBITIONS, COOL SHOPS, CUTE CAFES AND QUIRKY PLACES TO STAY
BEER GARDENS
ROYAL DICK BAR AT SUMMERHALL, EDINBURGH
The capital’s hipster arts venue reopens its sun-trap courtyard bar from Monday with extended hours for the first week (noon to 10pm daily). Advance booking is required and the bar is offering tables for two and picnic benches for up to six people from three households in two-hour slots.
Call 0131 560 1580 or visit summerhall.co.uk
THE RECORD FACTORY, BYRES ROAD, GLASGOW
Tables are booking up fast at this West End favourite, a bar and music venue at the bottom end of Byres Road, and at the time of writing the only slots available were in early July. On the other hand, the weather’s likely to be better by then.
Call 0141 334 8888 or visit recordfactory.co.uk
THE OYSTERCATCHER, OTTER FERRY, TIGHNABRUAICH
One of Scotland’s most picturesque beer gardens, this one sits on the south-east bank of Loch Fyne. The bar, which is well stocked with whiskies and small-batch gins, is reopening on April 29 for tables of up to six people outside. Drinks will be served until 9.30pm, though your designated driver may enjoy a flat white from local roaster Argyll Coffee. Booking is advised.
Call 01700 821 229 or visit theoystercatcher.co.uk
THE SHIP INN, ELIE
The beautiful East Neuk village of Elie is home to equally beautiful shoreside pub The Ship Inn, where you can watch the locals play boules or cricket on the beach (if you’re there on June 20, they’re taking on The Lord’s Taverners). The beer garden reopens on Monday from 9.30am to 10pm, with food on offer as well until 8pm. Booking is advised but the pub will be taking walk-ins if tables are available.
Call 01333 330246 or visit shipinn.scot
GLASGOW BEER WORKS
What could be finer than a pint or two in view of John Byrne’s celebrated mural of the Big Yin? The Glasgow Beer Works pop-up beer garden opens for business in a large space off Osborne Street on Monday selling
GBW brews as well as many others. You can book online via the website and the hours are Thursday to Sunday, noon to 10pm. Booking is recommended, though walk-ins will be accommodated, and time slots are two hours. Dogs are welcome.
Call 0141 774 9930 or visit glasgowbeerworks.com
FAMILY
EDINBURGH INTERNATIONAL CLIMBING ARENA, RATHO
Live the post-lockdown high life at this world-class climbing centre, host to International Federation of Sport Climbing challenge-level walls, as well as gentler, easier climbs for beginners, a bouldering area, a clip and climb suitable for all ages, and an aerial assault, zip-slide included.
Visit edinburghleisure.co.uk/venues/edinburghinternational-climbing-arena
INVERNESS LEISURE CENTRE
Pools are back. And what better way to celebrate that than a proper splash around in a water park, complete with wave machine. One of the nice quirks of this Inverness pool is the channel that
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carries the swimmer from the indoors to an outdoor pool and an al fresco paddle. highlifehighland.com/il/
BLAIR DRUMMOND SAFARI PARK, STIRLING
Home to over 300 animals, with both drivethrough and walk-around areas. Some parts of the park are closed, but there’s still plenty of furries to see at this perennial family favourite. Online booking required.
Visit blairdrummond.com
EDINBURGH ZOO, EDINBURGH
The superstar pandas are still there – and we are still waiting for baby pandas – but all is not entirely back to normal at the zoo. The penguin parade has been shelved because of Covid and indoor animal areas are closed. Still, whatever the limitations, most of 82-acre site is open and there’s more than enough to make a fascinating day of it.
Visit edinburghzoo.org.uk
DISCOVERY POINT, DUNDEE
Fans of Ridley Scott’s spooky TV drama The Terror might like to take the trip this museum offers to another polar region, the Antarctic of Captain Scott’s expeditions. Not only does it tell the story but it allows visitors to wander on board the RRS Discovery, the vessel on which he discovered the Antarctic plateau. Open from May 10.
Visit rrsdiscovery.co.uk
GO APE ABERFOYLE, TROSSACHS
Stretch your monkey limbs and test your head for heights on the dizzying Treetop Challenge, designed for age 16-plus, and featuring routes of different challenge-level. Highlight of this high-wire clamber is one of the longest zip-lines in the UK (minimum age 10), which speeds own over 400 metres of the Trossachs countryside.
Visit goape.co.uk
DYNAMIC EARTH, EDINBURGH
Forget crossing the local authority boundary, here you can journey across the solar system. Scotland’s earth science centre reopens on May 8 with the launch of the UK’s first and only Digistar 6K planetarium. No vaccine passports required for this space cruise.
Visit www.dynamicearth.co.uk
BATTLE OF BANNOCKBURN EXPERIENCE, STIRLING
Visit where Robert the Bruce raised his standard at the site of his greatest victory – and get to feel like you were right there. Few historic centres have gone quite as far in their bid to immerse visitors in the action of the past than Bannockburn does with its astounding digital recreations.
Visit nts.org.uk/visit/places/bannockburn
SEA LIFE LOCH LOMOND AQUARIUM, BALLOCH, LOCH LOMOND
Among the big attractions here are Lily Pickle and Cub, a trio of Asian short-clawed otters. But don’t get fixated on those charismatics – there are also sea horses, rock pool creatures and a deep water loch tank that is home to sharks and rays.
Visit visitsealife.com/loch-lomond
JUMP IN, EDINBURGH
No better way to exhaust your kids and shrug off lockdown than by letting them bounce themselves breathless at a trampoline centre. From April 26, Jump In is offering trampoline sessions for groups of up to four guests from no more than two households.
Vist gojumpin.com/locations/trampoline-park-edinb
MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES SCOTTISH NATIONAL GALLERY, EDINBURGH
Opening Thursday to Saturday from May 6, the Scottish National Gallery on The
Mound has moved seven of its PostImpressionist paintings to a display on the ground floor. Among them are Monet’s Haystacks, Van Gogh’s Olive Trees and Vision of the Sermon by Gauguin. They’ll be exhibited alongside other SNG faves such as Landseer’s Monarch of the Glen and Raeburn’s Skating Minister. Visitor numbers are limited, social distancing rules apply, there’s a timed ticketing system and booking must be made online.
Call 0131 624 6200 or visit nationalgalleries.org
NATIONAL MUSEUM OF RURAL LIFE, EAST KILBRIDE
Monday’s great unlocking couldn’t be better timed as the museum’s farm is welcoming the arrival of Spring’s lambs, calves and piglets and is now able to celebrate its 20th anniversary in an appropriate proper style – with visitors. As ever, online booking is essential and there’s a one-way system in place to ensure everything goes smoothly. Call 0300 123 6789 or visit nms.ac.uk
GALLERY OF MODERN ART, ROYAL EXCHANGE SQUARE, GLASGOW
GOMA reopens its doors on Monday to display its standing collection of art works. Tickets are being released in two week blocks and are for a specific date and time. Tickets must be booked online.
Call 0141 287 3050 or visit glasgowlife.org.uk
GAIRLOCH MUSEUM, GAIRLOCH, ROSS-SHIRE
Winner of the Art Fund Museum of the
Year Award in 2020, this museum overlooks Skye and as well as displaying visual art it showcases the history, culture and natural heritage of the area. Oh, and it’s sited in a converted nuclear bunker once used to track Soviet fighter planes, which is kind of cool if you’re a fan of bombproof doors and two foot thick concrete walls. The museum reopens on Tuesday and hopes to have its café up and running by May. It’s hoped that walk-ins can be accommodated but online booking is preferred.
Call 01445 712 287 or visit gairlochmuseum.org
One of Scotland’s most picturesque beer gardens, this one sits on the south-east bank of Loch Fyne
SCOTTISH NATIONAL GALLERY OF MODERN ART (MODERN ONE AND MODERN TWO), BELFORD ROAD, EDINBURGH
The gallery’s younger (and smaller) twin, Modern Two, opens on Monday with a continuation of its exhibition devoted to special effects maestro Ray Harryhausen. But the main event comes on May 16 when Modern One finally re-admits visitors. There’s a Joan Eardley show planned and some of the big guns in the gallery’s impressive Surrealist collection will be wheeled out as well. Modern Two is open daily, Modern One from Sunday to Tuesday.
Visitor numbers are limited, social distancing rules apply, there’s a timed ticketing system and booking must be made online.
Call 0131 624 6200 or visit nationalgalleries.org
AN LANNTAIR, STORNOWAY, LEWIS AND HARRIS
Though the bulk of the programme for its ambitious Dark Skies festival has been cancelled, the Stornoway arts complex is currently showing two associated shows (and has been doing so since April 13, when it reopened to visitors). The first is by London-based collective Lumen and includes Our Night Skies, a timelapse film of the canopy of stars over the Outer Hebrides. The other is a series of photographs showcasing those same dark skies. If all you’re after is a flat white and a brownie, the café bar is also open and it’s expected the cinema programme will start up in late May. Hours are 10am to 5pm, Tuesday to Saturday.
Call 01851 708480 or visit lanntair.com
KELVINGROVE ART GALLERY AND MUSEUM, KELVINGROVE, GLASGOW
One of the gems in Glasgow’s art crown, Kelvingrove reopens on Monday giving punters the chance to enjoy its worldbeating collection. There’s a two metre physical distancing rule and, as with GOMA, tickets must be booked online and are being released in two week blocks with the current block running until May 9.
Call 0141 276 9599 or visit glasgowlife.org.uk
JUPITER ARTLAND, NEAR WILKIESTON, EDINBURGH
After a members-only mini-opening over Easter weekend, the jaw-dropping sculpture park and exhibition space is now open. This year’s big draw is the first outdoor installation from Scottish artist Rachel Maclean, titled Mimi, showing alongside a sort of greatest hits of her storied career to date and opening on May 8. Booking is essential and tickets start at £5.
Call 01506 889900 or visit jupiterartland.org
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NATIONAL MUSEUM OF SCOTLAND, CHAMBERS STREET, EDINBURGH
The capital’s wonderful treasure trove of curiosities and extravaganzas welcomes visitors back from Monday and will be open daily between 10am and 4.30pm. Among the current draws is the Galloway Hoard, a 100-strong collection of Viking age treasure. Entry is free, of course, but advance online booking is required and as ever there are timed slots.
Call 0300 123 6789 or visit nms.ac.uk
ABERDEEN ART GALLERY, SCHOOLHILL, ABERDEEN
The ninth edition of the epoch-making British Art Show opens here in July, a notable honour for the Granite City’s prime exhibition space following its £34 million 2019 revamp. Ahead of that, locals can return from Monday with slightly less strict rules than pertain in the Central Belt: online booking is required but you can truck up at any time on the day and stay as long as you like.
Call 03000 200 293 or visit aberdeencity.gov.uk/ AAGM
CAFES AND RESTAURANTS BOSWELL’S COACH HOUSE, CUMNOCK
Based in an 18th-century coach house, part of the Auchinleck estate that has been in the same family since 1504, it offers hearty home cooking, including beef from its own grass-fed, home-raised cattle. There’s also a gift shop and a farm shop.
Call 01290 553145 or visit boswellscoachhouse. co.uk
MOYRA JANES, GLASGOW
Glasgow’s south side is hoaching with great cafes, but Moyra Janes on Kildrostan Street is worth a visit (if you’re not already a regular). It’s been working hard on providing takeaways (cullen skink, chicken satay) prior to the cafe reopening.
Call 0141 423 5628 or visit facebook.com/ moyrajanes
HEAVEN SCENT, MILNATHORT, KINROSS
Long a favourite stopping off point for anyone taking a day trip to nearby Loch Leven. We’re heading there for one of its mahoosive veggie breakfasts as soon as we can get a table. We might just manage some of its fabulous cake too.
Call 01577 865577 or visit heavenscentcoffeeshop. co.uk
COORIE BY THE COAST, LIMEKILNS, FIFE
The village of Limekilns is something of an undiscovered gem, with impressive prospects of the Forth and the bridges. But when you’re tired of the view retreat to Yasmine Bazazi’s pretty cafe, which reopens next Friday, and fill up on waffles, toasties or sourdough sandwiches. A family business that’s been going for 30 years, it’s also dog-friendly.
Call O1383 872999 or visit cooriehotel.com
BREIZH RESTAURANT, 28 HIGH STREET, PERTH, PH1 5TQ
“French, but not in a bad way,” The Herald Magazine’s Ron Mackenna cheekily suggested when he popped into Breizh back in 2014. The High Street restaurant is still going strong in 2021, using authentic French ingredients. It reopens next Wednesday.
Call 01738 444427 or visit breizhrestaurant.com
OX AND FINCH, GLASGOW
Ox and Finch on Sauchiehall Street is such a familiar part of Glasgow’s restaurant scene that it’s surprising to recall that it only dates back to 2014. Offering a mixture of Scottish and international flavours, it’s good to have it back.
Call 0141 339 8627 or visit oxandfinch.com
TEA JENNYS, FALKIRK
So, you’ve seen the Kelpies. And the Falkirk Wheel. What else to do in Falkirk? Take a trip to Tea Jennys in King’s Court for tea and cake. There’s more to eat than cakes, right enough, but have you seen their cakes? Call 01324 228185 or visit facebook.com/ teajennysfalkirk
CAFE DES FLEURS, DOLLAR, CLACKMANNANSHIRE
For anyone off for a walk in the Ochils, this Dollar cafe in Bridge Street is a handsome place to refuel afterwards. We are very partial to its scones.
Call 01259 743699 or visit facebook.com/ CafeDesFleursDollar
COLONNADES, THE SIGNET LIBRARY, EDINBURGH
Located in the lower floor of this Georgian building in Parliament Square, Colonnades is the perfect place for those who want to dine while surrounded by neo-classical elegance. Reopening on May 6, it prides itself on its afternoon tea at £40 per person. Call 0131 226 1064 or visit thesignetlibrary.co.uk/ colonnades
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MHOR 84, BALQUHIDDER
Smart takes on traditional fare is what you get in the restaurant-café-bar of this funky motel which reopens on May 17. Much of the produce is sourced from its own farm at Monachyle Mhor, with bread from its own bakery.
Call 01877 384 646 or visit mhor84.net
FISHERS, LEITH
Based in a 17th-century watchtower, the bistro Fishers has a reputation that holds its own in the busy Leith food scene, As the name suggests, it puts seafood at the heart of the menu.
Call 0131 554 5666 or visit fishersrestaurants.co.uk/ fishers-leith
THE NEWPORT, NEWPORT-ON-TAY, FIFE
Unfortunately, you will have to wait until June 10 for the reopening of MasterChef winner Jamie Scott’s restaurant. But best things and all that. The Newport offers contemporary Scottish cuisine with a view of the Tay thrown in.
Call 01382 541449 or visit thenewportrestaurant. co.uk
THE OYSTER SHED, CARBOST, SKYE
Does what it says on the tin, as it were. This family business allows you to eat freshly shucked oysters whilst looking out over Loch Harport.
Call 01478 640383 or visit theoysterman.co.uk
THE OUTSIDER, EDINBURGH
Located on George IV Bridge, The Outsider is always a busy bolthole in August (and good for star-spotting as a result). Expect a reliable mixture of Scottish fare and international flavours.
Call 0131 226 3131 or visit theoutsiderrestaurant. com
THE WATERMILL, ABERFELDY
“Books and coffee/ books and coffee/ Go together like a …”Oh, wait a minute, we’re misquoting Sammy Cahn. But the point still stands, as Aberfeldy’s The Watermill proves. With a bookshop and cafe under one roof (an art gallery too), it’s always worth a visit. Visit aberfeldywatermill.com
RAMEN DAYO!, ASHTON LANE, GLASGOW
Ramen Dayo! in Ashton Lane is one of the dinkier spots in this list, which makes sticking to social distancing restrictions all the more difficult. But the restaurant has been hard at work to meet the challenge and is introducing al fresco tables to help. We’ve been dreaming of their Shitake X Porcini all through lockdown.
Call 0141 374 0254 or visit ramendayo.com
OBLO, 18 HARBOUR ROAD, EYEMOUTH
Oblo Bar and Bistro is home to Italian artisan finds, Scottish dishes and plenty of local produce. Check out its Twitter feed and Facebook for some appetising new dishes it’s been working on.
Call 018907 52527 or visit oblobar.com
BREW LAB, EDINBURGH
Based in South College Street, Brew Lab takes its coffee very seriously. This is a good thing. Brunch and lunch also available.
Call 0131 662 8963 or visit brewlabcoffee.co.uk
AKARA BAKERY, DENNISTOUN
Lewa Thomas opened Akara Bakery in Glasgow’s Duke Street at the end of 2019, just in time for the looming pandemic. The bakery is still in operation, but Thomas reckons it will be late May before she’s ready to reopen the cafe. It will be worth the wait. Call 0141 237 4414 or visit facebook.com/ Akarabakery
GRANARY CAFE, LINLITHGOW
This small cafe more than holds its own in a town full of decent eateries. The coffee is full-bodied (supplied by artisan coffee roasters Glen Lyon in Aberfeldy) and a new summer menu is in place for reopening. It also welcomes dogs. So, once you’ve taken Rover for a walk around Linlithgow
Palace …
Call 01506 253408 or visit granary.scot
WHERE TO STAY APPLECROSS CAMPSITE, APPLECROSS, WESTER ROSS
The mighty Bealach na Ba and spectacular views over Applecross Bay are right on your doorstep. In line with Scottish Government guidelines, the campsite is open to selfcontained vehicles and static caravans only from Monday. Toilets and showers will remain closed.
Call 01520 744268 or visit visitapplecross.com
CRAIGHEAD HOWFS, NEAR DUNBLANE, PERTHSHIRE
Two Hobbit hole-style Howfs – the Burrow and Bagend – are built into the hillside with wildflower-strewn roofs and round doors for a magical glamping experience. New for 2021 is the Whisky Howf, a quirky, squint
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roofed cottage nestled beside a lochan.
Call 01786 880321 or visit craigheadhowf.co.uk
TORAVAIG HOUSE, SLEAT, SKYE
This nine-bedroom hotel is a cosy and sumptuous gem with views over the Sound of Sleat and nearby Torabhaig Distillery. Its lures include open fires and a baby grand piano in the lounge, as well as a restaurant showcasing the best of Skye’s larder.
Call 01471 820200 or visit skyehotel.co.uk/toravaig
SLEEPERZZZ, ROGART, SUTHERLAND
A great base for exploring Dunrobin Castle and the North Coast 500, Sleeperzzz is located beside a functioning train station at Rogart (on the Inverness line to Thurso and Wick). Accommodation includes a vintage railway carriage and a 12-ton goods van from the 1950s.
Call 01408 641343 or visit sleeperzzz.com HARVEST MOON, NEAR DUNBAR, EAST LOTHIAN Beach strolls, rock pooling, woodland walks, sand dune sledging and sea swimming are a few of the delights on this picturesque site. The accommodation includes a mix of cabins and treehouses.
Visit harvestmoonholidays.com
THE SAWMILL AT GLEN DYE, BANCHORY, ABERDEENSHIRE
A sleek, refurbished 1950s Airstream Safari caravan in a small pine wood beside the fast flowing lade of a sawmill. Glen Dye also offers a river cabin, a bothy and two steading cottages. Call 01330 850689 or visit glendyecabinsandcottages.com
HELICOPTER GLAMPING, MAINS FARM WIGWAMS, THORNHILL, STIRLING
Stay in a Sea King helicopter with mini kitchen, bathroom and a cockpit seating area offering glorious views over the Forth Valley. The helicopter – part of Mains Farm Wigwams – sleeps two adults or a family of five.
Call 01786 850735 or visit mainsfarmwigwams.com
ROULOTTE RETREAT, NEAR MELROSE, SCOTTISH BORDERS
A circle of seven colourful roulottes (Romany-style caravans) sit in a pretty wildflower meadow below the Eildon Hills. Facilities include sunset decks, woodburning stoves, eco saunas and hot tubs. Each roulotte faces on to a lochan at the centre of the site.
Call 07990 744044 or visit roulotteretreat.com
MARTHROWN OF MABIE, MABIE FOREST, DUMFRIES AND GALLOWAY
Choose from a yurt, tipi or Celtic roundhouse (the latter comes with an Iron Age-meets-21st-century upgrade of a composting toilet, hot shower and fully equipped cooking shelter). Among the facilities are a barbecue area and a ropes challenge course.
Call 01387 247900 or visit marthrownofmabie.com
EAGLE BRAE, STRUY, BEAULY, INVERNESS-SHIRE
A wildlife adventure and eco escape await at Eagle Brae, a luxurious log cabin village on a tranquil hillside between Glen Affric and Glen Strathfarrar. Deer, pine martens and birdlife will thrill nature lovers.
Call 01463 761301 or visit eaglebrae.co.uk
SHOPS THORNEYBANK FARM SHOP, ROTHIENORMAN, ABERDEENSHIRE
This charming farm shop can be found on the B9001, near Rothienorman, around 14 miles north of Inverurie. It was originally set up by Eric Stephen in the 1980s as a simple cart selling homegrown veg. The coffee gets rave reviews as do the homemade cakes. Call 01888 511393 or visit facebook.com/ lowerthorneybank
THE COALSHED, APPLECROSS
A superb treasure trove of art and crafts, framed local photographs, toys and gifts. The Coalshed is a tiny gallery owned and run by Sue Groocock who makes beautiful jewellery using silver, semi-precious stones and freshwater pearls. Call 01520 744206 or visit facebook.com/TheCoalshed-672664329417253
The coffee gets rave reviews as do the homemade cakes
BOO VAKE, PERTH
What’s in a name? Boo Vake is how you pronounce Buth Bheag in Gaelic, meaning “little shop”. The small but mighty Boo Vake specialises in playful, contemporary products from artists, makers and designers – think homeware and ceramics – that will spark joy. Opens Wednesday.
Call 01738 442263 or visit boovake.co.uk
THE HERON FARM SHOP AND KITCHEN, NEAR STRATHAVEN, LANARKSHIRE
Run by husband-and-wife Emma and Angus Smith, The Heron is a great spot for breakfast, brunch, a leisurely lunch, or tucking into homemade cakes. The shop proffers local and Scottish produce, such as meats, eggs, cheese, and chutneys.
Call 01357 440147 or visit theheronfarmshop.com
STIRLING BOOKS, STIRLING
From May 1, the brilliant Stirling Books – which specialises in rare and antiquarian volumes – will be offering a “personal book shop experience” to anyone wishing to peruse its towering stacks of second-hand
tomes. Please phone ahead to reserve a slot to browse.
Call 01786 465339 or visit stirlingbooks.co.uk
HARBOUR LANE STUDIO, SOUTH QUEENSFERRY
Run by illustrator and printmaker Tori Gray, this enchanting studio and shop is always worth a visit to pick up unusual bits and bobs. Gray’s eponymous Harbour Lane Home range of illustrated lampshades, cushions and rugs are sublime.
Call 0131 574 6514 or visit harbourlane.com
THE LONG DOG BOUTIQUE, ABERDEEN
If you are a proud pooch owner, The Long Dog Boutique sells everything from collars and coats to pick-and-mix chews and treats. Open Wednesday to Sunday each week.
Call 01224 467979 or visit thelongdogboutique.uk
BLAIRMAINS FARM SHOP AND COFFEE BOTHY, BLAIRLOGIE, STIRLING
Nestled at the foot of the Ochils, a stone’s throw from the Wallace Monument, Blairmains Farm Shop and Coffee Bothy is owned and run by fifth-generation farmers. The shop is stocked with fresh and seasonal foods, including locally made dairy.
Call 01259 762266 or visit blairmains.com
GOLDEN HARE BOOKS, EDINBURGH
Located in Stockbridge, the shelves of this indie book shop always contain a delectable mix of carefully curated titles. If you need any further inspiration, the friendly staff are never short of excellent recommendations.
Call 0131 225 7755 or visit goldenharebooks.com
GIE IT LALDY, GLASGOW
For gift ideas that will bring a smile to the face of even the biggest grump, check out Lisa Donati’s tongue-in-cheek homeware range emblazoned with colourful colloquialisms and patter such as “Gaun Yersel”, “Gallus” and “Fur Coat and Nae Knickers”. Reopens on Tuesday.
Visit gieitlaldy.com