The Herald - The Herald Magazine
The Earl’s Seat Have we got views for you?
Location: Campsie Fells
Grade: Surprisingly steep hill walk
Distance: 7 miles/12km
Time: 3-4 hours
JUST as the Pentlands are Edinburgh’s hills so the Campsies dominate the skyline to the north of Glasgow, a range of bitesized hills that have offered a form of sanctuary to Glaswegian hillgoers for generations.
The Campsies are made up of layers of lava flow and Dumgoyne, the fort of the arrows, the thumb-like addendum that sticks up at the western end of the fells, is an ancient volcanic plug whose name suggests that it was once a defensive site. Curiously, neighbouring Dumfoyn could be the ‘hill fort of the wart’, which probably best describes its appearance.
The area’s highest point, Earl’s Seat, 578m, on the Fintry side of the fells, is probably named after the Earl of Lennox whose lands once extended on the south side of the Campsies.
A good 12km hill tramp, takes in both these landmarks, a fairly straightforward route with the promise of wide-ranging views to the urban skyline in the south and in complete contrast, Ben Lomond and the jumble of hills that mark the beginnings of the Highlands in the north.
The Beech Tree Inn is on the route of the West Highland Way and some wayfarers must have wondered where we were off to when we left the popular route behind and skirted the Glengoyne whisky distillery to cross the busy A81 road.
A narrow road took us steeply uphill before we abandoned it for the open hillside to the south of the house at Blairgar.
It’s easy to consider these Campsie Fells as inferior to the Munros and Corbetts in terms of challenge but there are some steep climbs hereabouts and here we were, barely warmed up, just about to undertake one of them. It’s only about 420 metres of climbing to the summit of Earl’s Seat from Blairgar but the initial climb, up the hill with the even steeper slopes of Dumgoyne to your right, is uncompromising.
Soon, with the green plug of Dumgoyne now behind us, the track began to ease off and where it did it became muddier! I remember learning map and compass work on these hills when I was a youngster and in misty weather you could be anywhere.
Amid the many bumps and hillocks of the wonderfully named Clachertyfarlie Knowes it
was very easy to become lost, or at least temporarily misplaced.
No such problems today though – it was as clear as a bell. Garloch Hill was our first rounded summit with views over the Ballikinrain Muir towards Balfron and the north.
From there it was simply a case of following the edge to a prominent cairn then a wee divergence to the south-east up easy slopes to the Campsie’s highest point, Earl’s Seat.
We simply returned the way we came, with another divergence to climb the very steep north slopes of Dumgoyne. A good path descends to the south and then west to take you back to the outward route above Blairgar.
ROUTE PLANNER
Map: OS 1:50,000 Landranger sheet 64 (Glasgow)
Distance: About 7 miles/12km
Time: 3-4 hours
Start/finish: The Beech Tree Inn (GR: NS523836)
Information: www.lochlomondtrossachs.org
Route: Leave the car park (it’s good to ask permission to leave your car at the Beech Tree Inn car park and it’s even better to spend a little money on tea or coffee, or maybe a bacon roll, in the Inn at the beginning of your walk or at the end when you’ll most likely appreciate it) and follow the WHW S to a turn-off to the left that will take you past the Glengoyne distillery buildings. Cross the often busy A81 road and follow the winding access road to Blairgar. Go through a gate into fields and follow the forest edge to the open hillside opposite Dumgoyne. Climb steeply ENE until the slope eases off just before Garloch Hill. Follow the cliff edge for about a kilometre to a prominent cairn before turning uphill (SE) to reach the summit trig point of Earl’s Seat. Now descend the way you came with a divergence to climb Dumgoyne by its steep NE slopes. From the summit follow the footpath S then W to the forest edge above Blairgar. Return to the start by your outward route.