Wine with Gerard Richardson

IN the 1980s, there were two ABCs in popular culture; one was a rather silly play on words to shun chardonnay (anything but chardonnay). Sadly, the grape still suffers from faded memories of that era.

The other ABC was Martin Fry’s band with their classic Lexicon of Love album.

Chardonnay’s spiritual home is Burgundy where it makes stellar appearances in chablis that’s both bone dry and unbelievably refreshing in the same glass, right up to the buttery heavenly creations of Batard Montrachet.

Burgundy is still the benchmark for winemakers the world over and the words Burgundian Style are almost as common as buttery and apple on the labels.

Truth be known, I love them all, even the unoaked Aussie styles that I used to regard as camp, fun things for the youngsters but my default is the great big oaky styles that really do smell like brioche and leave the same wonderful feeling on your palate as hot buttered toast.

I’m a simple guy at heart, albeit one with a very expensive palate.

Larry Cherubino ‘Ad Hoc, Hen and Chicken’ Pemberton Chardonnay, Australia

I think I’m becoming a Larry groupie and this cracking chardonnay isn’t helping me break the habit. Light, careful use of oak has created a gorgeous stone fruit wine with apples, crisp pears and a teasing hint of vanilla. Pop Wines, Glasgow £16.50

Radford Dale Chardonnay, South Africa

Classy and understated. This one is right up there with the best. Although the winemaker wont thank me for it, I thought it was almost a fusion of chablis and the best of the New World. Lime and apple fruits with reserved but classic hints of butter.

Oddbins £18