The Herald - The Herald Magazine
Where eagles dare A short break in luxe Highland lodge will set your spirits free
TURN left at the totem pole. These are not the usual directions for a holiday cabin in the Highlands but then Eagle Brae is not your usual holiday cabin. For a start, the cabins look like they were built by giants. Maybe by the Famhairean – the Celtic giants who threw massive boulders at each other across mountains, firths and lochs in everlasting battle, some of which can still be seen today as standing stones or tors.
Legend has it that a boulder-flinging giant occupies Dun-Fhamhair (Fomorian’s Hill) at Kilmorack, overlooking Beauly, which is handy as Eagle Brae is only a few miles down the road or a hop, skip and a jump for a big lad like him.
The cabins, which have living grass roofs, are built from giant red cedar logs sustainably sourced from British Columbia. They are constructed using traditional skills which mean the logs jut out from the cabins where the walls intersect. The effect from the outside is quite breath-taking. If you are familiar with the Harry Potter books or films you might be put in mind of Hagrid’s cabin but these are altogether more high end.
Pulling up outside our cabin, we took a few moments to take it all in, while less than 20 feet away a pair of stags chomped away on the hillside. We realised Eagle Brae (admittedly a slightly naff name) is more than a little out of the ordinary.
Stepping inside is akin to entering a cathedral of the forest. Everywhere you look is wood. The walls, the stairs, the grand soaring roof. It’s intoxicating. There are a few tartan accents and a heated stone floor but it’s the wood that dominates.
Glancing out of the window, across the River Glass, to the hills beyond, we can see swathes of birch and commercial forestry. The design makes you feel as if you and the cabin are part of the environment, not apart from it. And, of course, there’s a woodburning stove. It’s perfect.
We were staying in the Cinclus which sits on the edge of a steep slope with sweeping south-facing views, through the large French windows, down to the river in the strath below.
The cabin sleeps 2 to 4 people in one double or twin room, with 2 single log beds on the mezzanine, which are perfect for teenagers (though I’m sure an adult could squeeze in). The bathroom has a sauna and walk-in shower, as well as a bath.
The sitting-kitchen-dining area is large, with a comfy leather sofa and a table (wooden, of course), and high-end kitchen appliances. It’s the perfect place to leaf through a few of the fascinating books and magazines that are tucked away. I particularly enjoyed reading about the history of Scotland’s pinewoods.
There’s an upstairs sitting room, too – again ideal if you want some peace from the family. There’s a small office space, with computer and wifi. Outdoors, it has a very large deck with a picnic table, covered and contained by carved railings.
This is a luxury retreat and clearly a labour of love by Pawana and Mike Spencer-Nairn – the couple behind the cabin. Despite the high end touches, there is homespun feel to the welcome pack, which includes homemade jam, jelly and chutney.
There were lovely biscuits from Highland Crackers and a couple of beers from the Black Isle brewery too. There is also a concierge service that can provide meals, shopping and arrange activities such as fishing, dog sledding and deer stalking.
Pawana and Mike’s story itself befits their labour of love. While travelling in the Himalayas of India, he fell in love with more than just the area when he met Pawana in her village in Himachal Pradesh state – between Kashmir and Nepal. They were married and set up home in Jersey, where their children Rowan and Ishbel were born, before they fulfilled their dream of creating the ultimate self-catering holiday experience in the Highlands in 2005.
The next morning, we took a 20-minute hike up the hill behind Eagle Brae to their hydro weir. The resort strives to be a carbon-neutral destination and the weir harnesses the power of the burn which rushes down the hillside. It’s an impressive piece of micro-engineering and the walk gives wonderful views down the strath. I’d recommend stout footwear for the hike.
We were mostly, though, happy simply to
relax in our grand lodge and drink in the views. There are lots of activities nearby for lovers of the great outdoors, from nature spotting, cycling and hiking to boat rides and watersports on Loch Ness. Or pop along to the Aigas Gorge for a canoe safari.
Glen Affric is just along the road and is somewhere every Scot should see at least once in their life – to get some idea of what our country looked like when it was under the great Caledonian forest.
Eagle Brae is around a 45-minute drive west of Inverness and there are 10 cabins to choose between. Some sleep 2, most sleep 2-4 and some sleep up to 6. The cabins are dog friendly. Prices start at £1100 for three nights.
Just watch out for the giants.
To book, check www.eaglebrae.co.uk or phone 01463 761301 / 07738 076711