Wine with Gerard Richardson

WHEN the Pope moved from Rome to south eastern France the area remained the Papal base for 70 years, but they left a legacy that would last hundreds of years.

Popes loved wine, Burgundy in particular, but they also championed the creation of vineyards nearby in the previously uncultivated Rhone Valley and a legend was born, Châteauneuf Du Pape, the jewel in the Rhone Valley’s crown and a wine almost as much sought-after for the famous crossed keys on the bottle as the liquid itself.

I saw a cracking promotion for the region calling it the 18-grape symphony some years back in a reference to the number of different grapes allowed in the blend. I haven’t actually come across one featuring all the grapes but I’m sure there must be at least one winemaker who has tried it.

The main grape these days is the wonderfully jammy grenache, a grape that also blesses us with highly alcoholic wines. Secondary grapes tend to be Shiraz and Mourvedre, creating wines that can appear light in the glass but which are anything but in flavour and potency. Chateauneufs are instantly recognised by their heady noses, warm brambly fruit and hints of pepper or spice on the finish. They are also recognised by their price, but its worth it for the experience.

Domaine Durieu Châteauneuf Du Pape

What a lovely surprise to find one I’d never tasted and that I loved. It had an intriguing, slightly reserved nose but that just made the opulent palate even more fun. Spicy warm autumn fruits and a long peppery finish. Gorgeous, especially for the price. www.majestic.co.uk £25.99 per bottle or £20.99 mix six

Clos du Calvaire Châteauneuf Du Pape

Rich, multi-layered dark fruits with herbal notes and hints of spice on the finish. You can always rely on the Wine Society