Ron’s reviews

THE SPENCE, GLENEAGLES TOWNHOUSE, 39 ST ANDREWS SQUARE, EDINBURGH. 0131 332 3798 “The cod though, the cod… It is perfection. A hunk, a chunk, of a fillet, bronzed in the pan, caramelised, so moist inside. We’re supposed to pour roasted cauliflower and cockle chowder over it, and the pickled fennel.”

Menu: It’s Gleneagles Hotel’s place in the city and there’s a whiff of the country in the fishy, gamey menu with a hint of comfort food too. 4/5

Atmosphere: Magnificent, gilded, domed and pillared room that would be worth paying just to see but is even better when dining. 5/5

Service: They’re a little bit posh but also pleasant, friendly and knowledgeable and I have no complaints. 5/5

Price: Staggering at times, shocking at others but then you look around and soak it all up somehow it makes sense. 3/5

Food: It’s not really about the food so chapeau for making a significant effort; loved the corn bread, the cod and the roe deer so-so. 8/10 25/30

MURPHY’S PAKORA BAR, 1293 ARGYLE STREET, GLASGOW, TEL: 0141 337 6378

“Hang on though. The daal of the day? Delicious, rich, deep flavours, great spicing, just kinda wonderful. A meal of two halves then. Some of it damn good, some of it very ordinary.” Menu: The clue’s in the name: pakora in just about every shape, size and filling you can imagine. But they do a pretty good curry range. 3/5

Atmosphere: Even on a bleak midwinter night when all around were closing their doors this place was bursting with life. Good vibe. 5/5

Service; Pleasant guys, nipping about, kept the food flowing, professional service and the banter wasn’t bad either. 5/5

Price: Pakoras mainly around £6, small plates can hit £11, the curries (which most people were eating) around £7 including that daal. 3/5

Food: The daal was fab, the aubergine pakora very good. After that a bit hit and miss; the haddock in the £9 fish and chips was a star. 6/10 22/30

EDA, 8 HIGH STREET, GLASGOW. TEL: 0141 552 2843

“There will be another golden moment when the Tavuk Iskender arrives and I taste first the little garnish of shredded salad and discover, as I suspected I would, that the cabbage, lettuce, onion yada-yada is not only lightly dressed in lemon and oil but, hallelujah, seasoned too. I eat it all.”

Menu: It’s Turkish food and pretty much exactly as we would expect it to be, fabulous fresh, grills, casseroles, hot and cold meze. Boom. 4/5

Atmosphere: It’s a big old barn of a place at Glasgow Cross, but somehow with the grills and the open kitchen it still has a vibe. 4/5

Service: Excellent service from a helpful and cheery young waiter who was knowledgeable and friendly. 5/5

Price: At first I thought the prices were high, then I saw the portions. The mixed meze serves four at £25, the Tavuk Isender, ditto, £19.50 4/5

Food: Very high standard of food preparation, real pride in what they do,

genuinely banging flavours. 8/10

25/30

EL SANTO, 84 MILLER STREET, GLASGOW. TEL: 0141 260 0770

“The tacos do look freshly made and are filled alternatively with crisped pork, apple and coriander pesto and refried beans or with breaded cod cheek, mango gel, jalapeno and, uh, caviar. The pork is crisp enough not to be chewy, the pesto has a kick.”

Menu: Interesting Latin America inspired restaurant with pastel de gambas, pico de Gallo, ceviches, charcoal grill parilla, ambitious. 3/5

Atmosphere: The strongest point. Pleasant low-lit Latino, intimate lighting, atmospheric music. 4/5

Service: At these prices it wasn’t great. Food delivered in passing, big gaps between dishes, mid-week staff shortages? 3/5

Price: Tacos at a tenner for two are good value, dessert at £9 not so much. The rest inbetween. 3/5

Food: They’ve set themselves a hard task with such a varied menu: tacos were good, ceviche okay-dokey, otherwise a bit ho-hum. 6/10 19/30

MOSOB 56 DUNDAS STREET, GLASGOW, TEL: 0141 237 5260

“The injera provides a distinct and fresh tang when wrangled round the Quanta fit-fit – that will be the spiced beef jerky in shredded bread with berbere spices and seasoned butter.” Menu: East African. Beef Zilzils (marinated), lamb Tibsi (cubed), all wrapped in huge injera. It’s certainly interesting. 5/5

Atmosphere: Probably Glasgow’s least welcoming entrance but once you are up the stairs it’s vast, airy and comfortable. 3/5

Service; Warm, friendly and very relaxed waiting staff. Food came pretty quickly too. 4/5

Price: We’re deep in bargain territory with main dishes hitting a tenner, and starters £4. 4/5

Food: It’s all hands on with injera eating, scooping meats and rice, spices and flavourings. It’s completely different and pretty enjoyable. 7/10 23/30

ORIGINAL KHYBER, 69 KILMARNOCK RD, SHAWLANDS. TEL: 0141 632 8716

“So moist, so tender, so full of flavour and drenched in a light, puffy even, flavoured pilau that carries its own little plip-plops of spicing. I mean just try it. Get the big picture for you folks at home.”

Menu: Qaubli Pilau, Special Lahore Masala Fish, plus some of the usual stuff. Interesting, Pakistani and

Afghan menu. 4/5

Atmosphere: There’s a great bowling Bustly, Hustly. Grab a booth by the wall if you can, it was all action when I was in, but there’s a great community vibe. 5/5 Service: Hmm, they do things a bit different here. When busy you seem to fend for yourself but they’re fast and very pleasant. 3/5

Price: That mountain of Qaubli Pilau comes in at just under £11, everything else is priced to make it seem like a bargain. 5/5

Food: What do they do with the rice? Probably cook it in a proper stock. It’s fabulous anyway. Simple but great cooking. 9/10 26/30