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GUIDO’S CORONATIN RESTAURANT, 55 GALLOWGATE, GLASGOW. TEL:0141-552-3994

“The fish supper now. Two big but fine fillets, batter so crisp I could eat them like biscuits, splattered too with extra crunchy bits, and then the moist, white fish inside. Chips? Excellent.”

Menu: Come on: it’s a chip shop. A proper, historic, reassuringly old-school one. King ribs, pizza crunch is about as exotic as it gets. 4/5

Atmosphere: Bright colours, upholstered booths, non-stop chit-chat from behind the fryer and the customers: great feel. 5/5 Service: Super-friendly and not in a formulaic fashion; warm, comfortable feel about the whole place. 5/5

Price: £9.45 for the large fish tea: two large fillets, chips, pot of tea and a slice of nonsourdough bread. £6.45 for half ‘n’half and chips. 5/5

Food: Is it the best chip shop in the world? No idea. But there ain’t many that can still turn out fresh crisp golden fish and decent chips. 8/10 27/30 CAFE FISH, 122-124 NITHSDALE ROAD GLASGOW, TEL 0141424-4600

“Those are crisp batter bombs: light, white meat inside balancing juicy and marinated tomatoes on one flavour side, coriander and zig-zag trails of squirted mayo on t’other. I could actually have had another portion,”

Menu: Crab cakes, fish tacos, fish pies, mackerel salads, a grilled fillet of cod – pretty much what you would expect these days. 3/5

Atmosphere: Relaxing, kick-back, cafe-feel in part of Glasgow’s south side suburbia. Not very busy when we were in. 3/5 Service: Pleasant, friendly and the food came at the right times. No complaints. 4/5 Price: It’s seafood, it’s Scotland. It’s never going to be cheap. They’re trying to make prices less exclusive, but at what cost? 3/5 Food: Full marks for providing a full menu packed with mainstream seafood. It’s just not handled particularly well. Tacos were good. Date pud too. 6/10

19/30

HERON, HENDERSON STREET, EDINBURGH. TEL: 0141 554 1242.

“Palate cleansed, I pause for a moment to marvel at the incredible work that went into hand-charring this single scallop, then finely razoring it, interspersing each slice with perfectly worked blood orange and dashing it all in ponzu sauce.”

Menu: One of Scotland’s two new Michelinstarred restaurants so expect fresh home country ingredients, prepared with real art.

5/5

Atmosphere: Surprisingly quiet on a Thursday night, but a languidly relaxed and comfortable space.

4/5

Service: Faultless: they even scribbled down what was in every dish for me in the middle of service.

5/5

Price: I ate pretty much everything on the menu, slowly, enjoyably and it came to £131. It’s really an evening of food theatre, not just a meal. 3/5

TFood: hat barbecued prune bread toastie; the lightest most intense langoustine tart; there isn’t a dish that doesn’t deliver. Good

9/10

MALA PROJECT, CHURCH STREET, GLASGOW. TEL: 07858 568888

stuff. “Those on-the-side tofu skewers – stuffed with by-now wilted in the fryer, coriander, drenched in some sweet sticky, tangy moreish sauce – are here too. And there are the beef skewers. These are rolled in some dry spicing with a real tang to it, maybe ground Szechuan peppercorn, maybe some dried fruit too. They’re moist and meaty, with a slight crispness.”

Menu: It’s Chinese food, but not as we know it. Dry pots, hot pots, pick your own ingredients to be weighed and cooked in the kitchen. Good fun. 4/5

Atmosphere: We could be in China, so strong is that vibe, out front though it’s a plain Jane, cleanly efficient vibe. If you like different it’s a hit.

4/5

Service: The experience was vastly improved by the friendly young greeter guy who took me through the whole process. Staff want to help. 5/5 Price: The food is picked, weighed and priced per scoop unless like me, you opt for the set menu choice at £13.80. Worth a go.

Food: You pick what is cooked, so the emphasis is on freshness. Spicing magic turned the seafood pot into a triumph. Skewers good too. 8/10

25/30

STATION KITCHEN, 120 DUMBARTON ROAD, GLASGOW. TEL: 0141 339 6837

“The chicken comes in light, crisped, deliciously moist nuggets, dotted with Szechuan peppercorns, leaving that mouth-tingling signature sensation, with heaps of dried fried chillis tumbling off with every mouthful. “

Menu: There’s a menu for safe diners at the back, but up to then it’s much focused on the Chinese community. 4/5

Atmosphere: I was drawn in by it being mobbed on a cold Tuesday with young cool people from the Chinese community. Nicely lit, comfortable. 4/5

Service: There were language issues mainly down to my poor Cantonese but very pleasant and helpful staff. 4/5

Price: It looks pricey until you realise these are often huge sharing platters of food. Hot and sour soup, £3.80; mains around £10. 4/5 Food: Some dishes are clearly for the more seasoned palate but there’s plenty to like in that pork in scoop and chicken cubes. 8/10 24/30 STRAVAGIN, 28 GIBSON STREET, GLASGOW. TEL: 0141 334 2665.

“At £22, the roast pollock (remember when this was a humble fish?) is salted properly, seared correctly and flakes lightly on a semi-artistic scattering of ingredients that includes grapes, fennel, new potato halves and, apparently, shellfish sauce.”

Menu: Pig’s head croquettes, Borders ox cheek, pollock, confit leeks. This institution is owned by a pub chain but could still work harder. 4/5

Atmosphere: Surely one of Glasgow’s nicest dining rooms? Like a comfy old sofa. 4/5 Service: It’s a big old barn of a place with a lot of ground to cover for the staff, which they do with a brisk, efficient charm. 5/5

Price: Those peanuts were £3.50, the croquettes £6.50, small plates £8 to £15, our pollock £22. All fair in Glasgow’s west end. 3/5 Food: Loved the confit leeks, enjoyed the pollock and even the dangerous-in-a-pub-chain curry. Overall, a pleasant meal. 8/10

24/30

4/5