The Herald - The Herald Magazine

Ron’s reviews

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DUNDUN XIANG, 321 SAUCHIEHAL­L STREET, GLASGOW 0141 332 6888

“Scooping up slivers of thin fried meat, laced with hunks of stir fried peppers, dragging this in the hot, oily juices at the bottom and wondering out loud what’s in this that makes it taste much better than the sum of the parts.”

Menu: It’s chilli flashed Xiang Cuisine, with some Tie Guo Don thrown in. It’s refreshing­ly different. 4/5

Atmosphere: It’s on Glasgow’s Sauchihall Street which looks post-apocalypti­c nowadays but inside warm, comfortabl­e and freshly outfitted. 4/5

Service: Staff were very welcoming, patiently explained when asked, food brought quickly enough considerin­g they sell no starters. 5/5

Price: That pork dish, like most everything else, comes in a sharing platter at £14.90, the Jian Bing £5.90, no extras, no upselling, good value. 4/5

Food: The dish I would go back for is the Enoki Mushroom, with a Jian Bing on the side, but everything packed with flavour and heat. 7/10

Total 24/30

SURESH AND SONS THE KITCHEN, 108 ELDERSLIE STREET

GLASGOW.

“Now, I’m eating the best dish so far. A simple potato curry, the sabzi, properly spiced, a thin almost runny consistenc­y, good spuds used, while taking bites of the Bedami Puri, big puffs made with dal and spices, that dal also making a deep, dark stuffing that counter punches the light bread. I want more.”

Menu: Indian street food with style Vada Pav, Bedami Puri, Chole Kulche, Aloo Paratha and Aloo Kachori. 4/5 Atmosphere: It’s a kind of wooden building, with no glass in the windows, but still fresh and well lit and kinda cool. 4/5 Price: Right now these are bargain basement prices with dishes ranging from £3.50 to just £6.50. Great value. 5/5 Service: Nice people, friendly but the daft bell thing is a recipe for trouble when it starts to get busy. 3/5

Food: There’s a knock-out Aloo-Sabzi, simple potato curry but packed with flavour, fresh parathas, great puffed breads. 8/10 Total 24/30

THAI BAR & RESTAURANT, 317 KILMARNOCK ROAD,

GLASGOW. 0141-328-9156

“Everything, every single thing, the waitress has said on one of her cheery, chatty flybys, is made in here by ourselves, nodding at her mum and co in the open kitchen to our left.”

Menu: The clue is in the name. Thai food pretty much as we already know it, but with the added oomph that’s it all handmade by the family. 3/5

Atmosphere: Honest hard-working people create their own atmosphere and this place hums with a wholesome vibe.

5/5

Service: This is the real secret sauce of this restaurant. Mum and daughter business, fabulous, warm, welcoming and capable service. 5/5

Price: Honestly? It’s not particular­ly cheap with starters hovering at the £8 mark and mains hovering between £14 and £16, but large portions. 3/5

Food: The mum makes it all with her friends, it’s not particular­ly new stuff, but the Pad Thai had a tang and the spiced beef had a zing. 6/10

Total 22/30

THE COORIE INN, 6 WILLOUGHBY ST, MUTHILL, CRIEFF, 01764 681773

“Sable Breton, and a meringue so light you could sail the toffs’ yacht in it, creme fraiche, basil and - taa-raa - rhubarb. Light, punchy, that basil an afterburne­r, the puckeringl­y tart rhubarb, and the bakey-bakey bit of it? Well, my spoon skims the very last remnants.”

Menu: Perthshire pork loin. North Sea crab. Strathearn Cheese Rarebits. Punchy fresh desserts, Scottish cooking, French-ish flair.

4/5

Atmosphere: It looks like an old-time travellers’ inn from the outside, but inside, it’s comfortabl­e, refined and atmospheri­c.

5/5

Service: One of the dudes who served me was an owner so along with the other staff I have zero complaints: warm, knowledgea­ble, friendly. 5/5

Price: There isn’t a starter under £13, nor a dessert under £12, mains in the twenties. I had no complaints given the quality.

4/5

Food: They were top-notch pastry chefs in a previous life and it shows in the dessert, and even in turning pork loin into something special. 8/10

Total 26/30

NAMAK MANDI, 100 NORFOLK STREET, GLASGOW 0141-213-2023 “There’s a dessert table, a huge wibblywobb­ly tureen of rice pudding, cold kebabs of freshly sliced fruit, a platter of watermelon slices, kids picking them up as groups stream towards the door.”

Menu: Huge serving dishes of curries, Afghan-based often. Plus pilaus, salads and desserts all pretty much desi style.

4/5

Atmosphere: The place was bursting with life, family groups everywhere, great vibe. And I was on my own. 5/5

Service: It’s a buffet during Ramadan so serve yourself but the staff are dotting about and very helpful 5/5

Price: It’s not quite all you can eat, that would be distastefu­l, but there’s mountains of food at £20. 5/5

Food: The pilaus and karahis were simple yet packed with flavour. Rooh Afza was a rose-flavoured refreshmen­t. Good stuff.

7/10

Total 26/30

HENRY’S CAFE BAR & RESTAURANT, 5 ABBOT STREET, GLASGOW

“This hummus is un-put-down-able and I scarf it in big, tangy, greedy dollops. The pitta bread that’s come with it though is dry, nowhere near fresh enough and, apart from an explorator­y nibble, left untouched.”

Menu: Hipster-style or a never-ending search for new sensations? Potato schiacciat­a, curried carrot hummus, cured sea trout. 4/5

Atmosphere: If you like long, low, secret bar-cum-diners then this is the place for you. 4/5

Service: Pleasant, relaxed and helpful staff all round. 5/5

Price: That focaccia was £6, most of the medium-sized plates hover around £12.

3/5

Food: Nothing had the just-cooked feel, so a bit of assembly but done well and prettily. Some of the flavours were a big hit. 6/10 Total: 22/30

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