Sea change Salt may be washed up as firm makes waves with alternative
Once a vital and nutritious part of the human diet, seaweed is once again making a major splash with Scots foodies and dieticians
IT is an ingredient which is in abundance in Scotland and centuries ago our ancestors had the knowledge to incorporate it into their diet.
Seaweed is everywhere and for some it might just be that unpleasant tangled mess on a beach. However, to others it is something which could have health benefits including fighting off colds and helping to boost your immune system.
And this week it was announced that researchers are leading a study of an overthe-counter nasal spray from Boots which contains an ingredient found in seaweed. The team at Swansea University is looking to see if it would be effective in helping to ward off coronavirus symptoms.
It is one of the reasons the founder of Scottish seaweed producer Mara is so passionate about it. Fiona Houston set up the firm which harvests from the shores of Fife and dispatches its products from its base in the Granton area of Edinburgh where it is dry milled, blended, packed.
She didn’t have to look far for inspiration as it stemmed from exploring the shores with her young family and foraging for food. Mrs Houston began experimenting with seaweed in recipes some years before even starting the business.
“Seaweed was used in the past and our ancestors would have put it in a drink or broths to heal or fight off viral infections and it is used in Asian countries on a daily basis, but we didn’t seem to do anything with what is around our own coastline and on our doorstep,” said Houston.
“With my friend Xa Milne we came up with the idea of a cookbook Seaweed And Eat It which was published in 2008. It looked at ways it could be incorporated into our daily diets. Seaweed is rich in minerals and is known for its health benefits but as a nation we weren’t using it in our food.
“The book really sparked a passion and I was driven to start the business which I did so a couple of years later.”
Houston, who takes seaweed daily herself and feels it has boosted her immune system (she says she is the last person to catch a cold), had a vision to see Mara’s produce brought to the shelves of supermarkets – and she has done just that.
“You will now find Mara products on the shelves of leading supermarkets. That was my goal and we did it. I wanted to make it a brand using the best of Scottish seaweed,” added Houston, a former Washington-based journalist turned entrepreneur.
“Our forebears certainly knew a thing or two about seaweed. It is very rich in iodine, iron, potassium and calcium and is very good for female health. Two-thirds of British women don’t get enough iodine in their diet which can play a role in thyroid health.”
With seaweed said to be a healthier alternative to salt, it’s not just home cooks who are adopting seaweed – it has made its way into the dishes of one of Scotland’s leading chefs, Colin Nicholson. He is the head chef at the restaurant at Inverlochy Castle in Fort William and had been experimenting with seaweed which led him to team up with Mara. The restaurant is operated by culinary legend Albert Roux and his son Michel Roux Jnr.
During his travels to Australia and New Zealand, Nicholson discovered different and diverse ingredients and flavours. On his return to Scotland where
Our ancestors would have put it in a drink to heal or fight off viral infections and it’s used daily abroad, but we didn’t seem to do anything with what’s on Scotland’s doorstep
he initially worked at Arisaig House in the Highlands, before moving on to Inverlochy, he became interested in foraging, using sustainable foods and using local produce.
“I had been foraging for sea herbs and baking bread during lockdown and handing it out to neighbours. I have always been keen on finding more sustainable produce,” he said.
“Ever since I became head chef it has been important to me where food comes from and I think it’s something our guests want to know as well.
“It could be from a farm along the road or the loch in front of the hotel. I was interested in the use of seaweed. It was something that was in our diet a long time ago and it seems to be something that people have rediscovered.
“I was aware of what Mara had been doing with seaweed and blending it in to flakes.”
Seaweed flakes look set to be a regular on the ingredients list at Inverlochy.
He added: “It has more of an umami taste to it and I have been using it for infusions and as a salt substitute.
“People shouldn’t be afraid to try it at home either and could add seaweed flakes to salads, pasta sauce, or use it in shortbread for a savoury flavour. I have been using them in savoury biscuits for canopies or puffed crackers.”
Nicholson has always been keen to support local and Scottish ingredients and his bosses back him. Michel Roux Jnr was on the interview panel which Nicholson faced to get the job at Inverlochy which is set to reopen its doors when restrictions in other parts of the country are lifted.
Although the hotel lies in a level one area, travel restrictions have meant people are prevented from enjoying a stay at the venue.
“They are a legendary culinary dynasty and I never imagined I would have the chance to work for them. We have regular meetings and there is a lot of involvement with Michel Roux Jnr. They are very supportive of things I want to do or to introduce including bringing in Scottish ingredients.”