The recreated old castle fit to grace any shortbread tin
WHA’S LIKE US? This week: Eilean Donan
EILEAN Donan is often described as the most-photographed castle in Scotland. Last month, it came seventh in a list of most “instagrammable” (not my word, believe me) castles in the UK.
It appears frequently on calendars, shortbread tins and whisky adverts. It has even been in the movies, including Bonnie Prince Charlie (1948), The Master of Ballantrae (1953), Highlander (1986), and The World Is Not Enough (1999).
Though often remarked on for its beauty, in truth, like nearly all Scottish castles, it is grey and grim, but its situation, amid the mountains and forests of Kintail, is undeniably dramatic and picturesque.
Worst thing about it? It isn’t ancient at all. It’s a 20th-century reconstruction, even though the publicity invites visitors to “explore a 13th-century castle in the Highlands of Scotland”.
Well, at least the Highlands bit is right. Eilean Donan can be found near the village of Dornie, on the mainland about 10 miles from Skye
Strictly speaking, Eilean Donan is the tiny tidal island at the confluence of three sea lochs (Duich, Long and Alsh), rather than the castle that sits upon it.
The name means “island of Donnán”, he having being a Celtic saint martyred on Eigg by pirates or Picts in 617. Possibly, he’d established a church on the islet at some point or, more likely, a later monastic cell dedicated to him was founded there.
Nothing tangible from that period remains, though vitrified fragments suggest a possible Iron Age or early medieval fortification.
In the 13th century, a large curtainwall castle was constructed on the instructions of Alexander II as a defence against Norse-Celtic neds from the Lordship of the Isles.
The builder was supposedly one Matheson, who was tweeting long before Twitter: he believed he could understand bird-talk.
‘Putin on the isles’
EILEAN Donan became a stronghold of the Mackenzies of Kintail, garrisoned largely by their Macrae allies (“Mackenzie’s coat of mail”), who helped repel the Earl of Ross, who had wanted it as a base from which to do a Putin on the isles.
Claims that Robert the Bruce sheltered at Eilean Donan during 1306-07 remain unconfirmed, though it’s possible the offer at least was there. In 1331, as a treat for the visiting Earl of Moray, 50 local wrongdoers were executed and had their heids displayed on the walls. Nowadays, we’d just put out a bowl of nibbles. Succeeding centuries were marked by the usual clan feuding. In 1539, Donald Gorm Macdonald of Sleat, in south Skye, heard the joint was weakly garrisoned, so sallied forth with his dander up. According to one account, Macdonald took 50 ships, which seems unlikely and certainly overkill, as his information had been correct: the garrison was two-strong. Unfortunately, just as he was getting wellied in, a Macrae arrived and hit Donnie in the foot with an arrow, slicing an artery. So he died, leaving Sleat Gormless.
Another interesting shot took place when a local clergyman was made constable of the castle, prompting a disgruntled Maclennan to fire an arrow into his bum. At least the clergyman got his point.
Donan dusted
DURING the first Jacobite rising, the Macraes mustered at Eilean Donan before waddling off to the Battle of Sheriffmuir where 58 of them were killed in the inconclusive, or pointless, encounter.
A few years later, in 1719, Spain got behind the Jacobites, sending soldiers to Eilean Donan. It was the usual farce, with the Highlanders failing to rise up, and the main Spanish invasion force offering the traditional no-show. What did show were three Royal Navy frigates which blootered the place in a bombardment.
On capturing the castle, they found “an Irishman, a captain, a Spanish lieutenant, a serjeant, one Scottish rebel and 39 Spanish soldiers, 343 barrels of powder and 52 barrels of musquet shot”. Not saying it’s a bad thing, far from it, but there’s always an Irishman, isn’t there?
Needless to say, the gunpowder exploded, and the castle was left a ruin for the next 200 years. Between 1919 and 1932, it was reconstructed from scratch by Lt Col John MacRae-Gilstrap, who had bought the islet in 1911 and commissioned Edinburgh architect George Mackie Watson to draw up plans. Dod didn’t have much to go on.
The only surviving drawing of the castle prior to its destruction was made by Lewis Petit, a military engineer, in 1714, when it was shown as already dilapidated and largely roofless.
Unsurprisingly, the last resident constable had complained it was cold, and they didn’t even have an energy crisis then. Or energy, to be fair.
In the 13th century, a large curtain-wall castle was constructed on the instructions of Alexander II as a defence against Norse-Celtic neds. The builder was one ‘Matheson’ who was tweeting long before Twitter: he believed he could understand bird-talk
On top of this, Petit’s little drawing was not unearthed until after the restoration, but at least they had a dream to go on: clerk of works Farquhar Macrae saw a vision of the restored castle in his sleep.
More concretely, the remaining ruins gave them ground plans, and the job was finished in 1932.
Trust the public
IT’S arguably (with effort) a reasonable facsimile, though some consider it a romantic reincarnation. Eilean Donan was opened to the public in 1955, and is now Scotland’s third most-visited castle. In 1983, ownership was transferred to the Conchra Charitable Trust, established by the MacRae family.
A visitor centre was opened in 1998. In the castle itself, visitors can stoat aboot the banqueting hall, billeting room, bedchambers and kitchens, marvelling or otherwise at period furniture, Jacobean artefacts, weaponry and fine art.
VisitScotland says that, in the sea nearby, you might see porpoises, dolphins and otters. Aye, good luck with that.
It’s £10 to get in, which isn’t the worst we’ve heard, probably because it isn’t run by Historic Environment Scotland, though the one concession mentioned, a pound off for seniors, is measly.
In the shop, bargains to be had, if you’re mental, include a “Lochcarron of Scotland” bow tie at £24.99 and a MacRae baseball cap at £11.50 (one size fits all, but with adjustable strap if your heid’s a peculiar shape).
Reviews on Tripadvisor are mostly positive, with a few gripes about extra parking charges, being a “tourist trap”, and giving the impression it’s a 13th century structure – when it isnae.