Drink wine and feel fine

Cutting down on alcohol needn’t mean missing out on a deserved glass of red, white or fizz, says Siobhan Grogan

There are all sorts of reasons why it makes sense to watch your alcohol intake. Whether you’re hoping to improve your health or just want to keep a clear head for the following morning, lowalcohol drinks mean you don’t have to give up raising a glass completely.

It can be confusing when choosing low-alcohol wine, though. In the UK, the government advises that drinks marked alcohol-free should contain no more than 0.05 per cent ABV, de-alcoholised ones should have no more than 0.5 per cent and those labelled low-alcohol should have a maximum of 1.2 per cent ABV. Some imported drinks may be marked differently, so it’s important to check the label carefully if you’re allergic to alcohol or keen to avoid it completely. When testing low-alcohol wine here, we considered only drinks with an alcohol content between 0.05 and 1.2 per cent.

If you’re just trying to cut back on your alcohol intake, lowalcohol wine is an easier switch than one with no alcohol at all. Unlike alcohol-free wine, which is often sweetened grape juice that has never been fermented, low-alcohol wine is usually made using the same process as wine, with the alcohol removed at the final stage.

“In the past, low- and no-alcohol wines have had a reputation for being sweet and not resembling wine,” says Sophie Barnard, assistant wine buyer at UK wine merchant Adnams. “However, spinning cone technology now allows us to make these wines in the gentlest way possible, retaining the aromatics and flavour profile of the wine. The wines can then showcase all the characteristics of the grape variety.”

As a result, many established winemakers and big supermarkets now produce their own versions. Generally, white and rosé wines are easier to replicate because they have the same fruity or floral flavours and can tolerate being a little sweeter. Anything with bubbles works well too, as the fizz masks the lack of alcohol but allows the wine to have a similar flavour profile. Choose carefully and you’ll barely miss the booze at all.

How we tested

We tasted a range of low-alcohol wines between 0.05 per cent and 1.2 per cent, testing a wide range of white, red, rosé and sparkling to find the best vino for every occasion. We tested each as we would ordinary wine, judging the smell, look and taste of each one. We also considered how similar each one was

to its more alcoholic alternative and if it could be paired with food or was better enjoyed on its own.

Cognato white: £8.99, The Alcohol Free Co

If you’ve ever tried a low-alcohol white wine that tastes like children’s fruit juice, you might have presumed dodging alcohol always meant teeth-rotting sweetness. Cognato was set up by cousins David Sommestad and Adam Malmnäs, who wanted to make low-alcohol wines that could be enjoyed with food in the same way ordinary wine can. They now produce a red, rosé and white, all made with grapes from coastal South Africa and with far lower sugar content than most other de-alcoholised wines – 2g per 100ml, in the case of this white, compared with some others with more than 4g. As well as being delightfully drinkable, the entire range is also Fairtrade certified, ensuring fair and sustainable working conditions for all involved in the production of the wine. It’s surprisingly dry too, with crisp citrus flavours and a fresh grassy note that would make this ideal with summery salads or light fish dishes. An alcohol-free revelation.

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Asda extra special sparkling sauvignon blanc low-alcohol wine: £3.50, Asda

It always feels like a treat to pop the cork on fizz, even if there’s no alcohol in your glass. This well-priced Asda bubbly is an excellent replacement for the real stuff. It’s made with dealcoholised and carbonated sauvignon blanc grown in Spain. Though it’s a touch sweeter than regular bubbly, its fresh fruity flavours go down a treat for a toast or with Asian dishes, such as stir-fries or even mild curries. Serve super-chilled to savour the zesty lime, lemon and gooseberry flavours at their best.

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Adnams 0.5% cabernet tempranillo: £5.49, Adnams

Award-winning Southwold-based brewer and wine merchant Adnams is already a fail-safe name when it comes to reliably excellent vino. So we were delighted to discover it’s turned its hand to low-alcohol alternatives, and this juicy red doesn’t disappoint. Made from a mix of cabernet sauvignon and tempranillo grapes from Spain, it has all you’d expect from a dry, fruity red but with the alcohol removed via spinning cone technology. There are juicy blackberry notes, a touch of spice and a decently dry finish that doesn’t leave you feeling like you need to brush your teeth. Serve alongside a classic margherita pizza or even a tomato-based stew for a match made in red wine heaven.

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Tesco low-alcohol garnacha rosé: £3.50, Tesco

We’re a sucker for a cold glass of rosé with a barbeque on a summer’s day, but we don’t always want the alcohol that comes with it. This well-priced alternative is a fantastic option to see us through summer without the booze, and the sweetness of rosé lends itself particularly well to an almost alcohol-free version.

Made with sun-ripened grapes from central Spain, it’s exceptionally fruity and packed with ripe strawberry flavours that taste like sunshine in a glass. Though it will definitely be too sweet for some, anyone who prefers an easy-drinking grenache rosé to a more delicate provencal will love every drop.

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Darling Cellars de-alcoholised sauvignon blanc: £7.35, The Alcohol Free Co

If sauvignon blanc is your go-to white, it’s possible to still enjoy a glass (or three) while avoiding alcohol. Happily, even the bottle this comes in looks more like ordinary wine than glorified grape juice, and we’d have no problem leaving it out on the dinner table.

A smooth white wonder, it has all the hallmarks of a decent savvy B, including refreshing tropical fruit flavours, a bright acidity and a long-lasting finish that makes this perfect to drink on its own. We’d also open a bottle with a seafood platter for a real alcohol-free feast.

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iHeart Zero sparkling rosé: £2.95, Slurp

With so little alcohol, it’s virtually booze-free, so this is a fantastic choice for drivers or anyone wanting to cut alcohol as much as possible without sacrificing flavour. This sparkling rosé has a lively fizz and a delicate salmon-pink colour in the glass, and it brims with red fruit flavours that would go down a storm served chilled on a summer’s day. It’s definitely on the sweeter side, so would be better enjoyed alone as an aperitif rather than with meals, but could also work well with a fruit salad or vegetable crudités. We also rate the honey and apple tang of iHeart Zero sparkling white (£2.95, Slurp.co.uk), if you’d rather swerve the pink stuff.

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Bon Voyage alcohol-free merlot red wine: £6.99, Click N Drink

When we’re skipping alcohol, we miss enjoying a good glass of red with food most of all. Without the complexity and mouthfeel provided by alcohol, it’s very difficult to adequately replicate a red, yet this is a decent attempt that works well alongside classic made-for-red food, including roast meat and even a cheese plate. A deep ruby red in the glass, it has layered notes of blackcurrant, cherry and red fruit with smooth tannins and a long finish. We’re also fans of the Bon Voyage alcohol-free sauvignon blanc (£6.99, Clickndrink.co.uk) when only white will do.

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Sainsbury’s alcohol-free sparkling: £3, Sainsbury’s

If you’re swerving the alcohol, it can feel hard to join in with celebrations when everyone else is drinking. Bring along a bottle of this alcohol-free sparkling from Sainsbury’s and you can toast along with everyone else – one friend we gave it to didn’t even realise it was booze-free until we told them. Better still, it looks the part too, with a wire cage and gold foil over the cork, so you can pop it just like ordinary bubbly. Like some champagnes, it also states the fact it’s a blanc de blanc on the label – that is, made exclusively from white grapes such as chardonnay – which makes this bottle feel even more special. It’s as nicely crisp as you’d expect, too, with plenty of long-lasting bubbles and a tang of apple that cuts through the sweetness.

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Nozeco alcohol free: £3.75, Ocado

The world can’t get enough of prosecco, so it’s no surprise alcohol-free versions have become big business too. Nozeco is one of the best-known alternatives and would certainly work well at a party or served alongside canapes. It’s dryer than many other sparkling alcohol-free wines we tasted, and brims with fine bubbles that last beyond the first sip. The well-balanced blend of apple, citrus and elderflower flavours makes this a lovely, refreshing choice that would work perfectly in fizz-based cocktails such as bellinis. Just be warned it is fairly high in sugar – at 5g per 100ml – so it’s probably best to enjoy just a couple of glasses.

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The verdict

There’s definitely no need to stick to water just because you want to cut alcohol, as there’s a respectable replacement whether you prefer red, white, rosé or fizz. We’d happily drink the Cognato white any time, thanks to its citrussy dryness, Fairtrade credentials and lower sugar content. Reds are harder to get right but we were suitably impressed with Adnams 0.5 per cent cabernet tempranillo for its fruity, complex flavours, especially served alongside food.

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