Foot

A more del­i­cate shoe is tread­ing the boards for spring, says Francesca Fearon

The Jewish Chronicle - JC Magazine - - Accessories -

WE ARE a na­tion of shoe lovers, spend­ing £2.5 bil­lion on high heels a year — and the higher the bet­ter it seems, judg­ing by the long reign of the mega-plat­forms. Nev­er­the­less as we kick-start a new sea­son, there is a def­i­nite move to chop those plat­forms down to size and make shoes more re­fined and deli- cate, rather than the du­bi­ous at­ten­tion-grab­bers they have be­come.

Sin­gle-sole courts, ele­gant an­kle cuffs, mono­chrome and shiny me­tal­lic leathers are just a few of the best ideas that emerged from the col­lec­tions in Lon­don and Mi­lan. The so­phis­ti­cated pointed stiletto makes a wel­come come­back in all col­lec­tions from Ru­pert San­der­son and Gian­vito Rossi to Jimmy Choo and Rus­sell & Brom­ley. Of course, it is a clas­sic court: heels are high, but plat­forms are ban­ished to cre­ate a lighter, more ele­gant and re­fined sil­hou­ette.

Gian­vito Rossi makes the style a state­ment in white; Jimmy Choo moulds it in python or zing­ing me­tal­lic pink. Bruno Frisoni, the de­signer at Roger Vivier, also favours a colour­ful me­tal­lic sheen for such a so­phis­ti­cated de­sign clas­sic. L.K. Ben­nett, mean­while, strug­gling to keep pace with the de­mand for its flat­ter­ing nude clas­sic court shoes since the Duchess of Cam­bridge started wear­ing them, has come up with pearlised gun­metal and blush fin­ishes that are a fresh and glam­orous take on the nude shoe and will com­ple­ment breezy white and neu­tral sum­mer dresses.

Sil­ver and gold are favourites for party girls, but the fash­ion for rose gold set­tings in our watches and jew­ellery is slip­ping south­wards into other ac­ces­sories, notably shoes. Rose gold courts, Mary Janes and san­dals pop up in many col­lec- tions from high-street brands like Kurt Geiger through to de­signer ranges such as Gian­vito Rossi. The trend has evolved to draw in other hues like me­tal­lic blue and hot pinks at Ni­cholas Kirk­wood and Ru­pert San­der­son and shiny reds and greens at Ser­gio Rossi. Ser­gio Rossi also taps into the trend for fring­ing and mono­chrome pat­terns for their high san­dals.

Some shoes are so mir­ror-bright that you can al­most see your re­flec­tion in them. Pas­tel mir­ror shades of li­lac, pink and lime green ac­ces­sorised Raf Si­mons’ de­but ready-towear col­lec­tion at Chris­tian Dior. He styled them with tuxedo looks and Dior’s sig­na­ture grey tai­lor­ing, il­lus­trat­ing how me­tal­lic leathers

can be worn in the ball­room or the board­room. The mes­sage is that th­ese shoes are not just re­served for par­ties. Just think how glam­orous mas­cu­line tai­lored trousers would look in day­time with a clas­sic but shiny pointed toe peep­ing out fro­munderneath the hem.

If you are look­ing for evening glam­our, then you need a shoe with a wide an­kle cuff — so so­phis­ti­cated on slim legs, when worn with a pen­cil skirt. Gucci, Gior­gio Ar­mani, Guiseppe Zan­otti and Rus­sell & Brom­ley all shifted the fo­cus from the toes to the an­kles. Gla­di­a­tors are an­other sum­mer favourite, whether high heels for evening or flats for the beach, and ap­pear in ev­ery col­lec­tion, some­times dec­o­rated in boho style with tas­sels, as at Ser­gio Rossi and Jimmy Choo.

Mono­chrome is an im­por­tant trend, es­pe­cially for day: the ying and yang of black and white as a com­bi­na­tion works per­fectly with the chic mono­chrome trouser suits and all the striped and geo­met­ric pat­terns in the new fash­ion col­lec­tions. A short white shift dress taps into that Six­ties Mod­ernist vibe when worn with black and white wedges from Roger Vivier’s Pris­mick range or their sig­na­ture pil­grim buckle flat made fa­mous by Cather­ine Deneuve in her 1960s clas­sic Belle de Jour. Ni­cholas Kirk­wood also has cre­ated a wide range of graphic styles in­clud­ing some with lower heels for both his own brand and that of Pollini which he de­signs.

A low heel can look cool and young, says Kirk­wood and there are plenty to be found around the brands. The black-and-white theme con­tin­ues in patent tas­selled loafers and brogues at Pollini, Rus­sell & Brom­ley, Ber­tie and Dune. The an­drog­y­nous look is a hot story for spring. Rus­sell & Brom­ley says flat shoes and boots were big sellers last au­tumn, as cus­tomers started to look for more com­fort along with great style. Black and me­tal­lic jazz shoe lace-ups are cer­tainly go­ing to be foot tap­ping their way out of stores over the next few weeks.

At the root of the trend was a quest for a re­place­ment for the clas­sic bal­le­rina pump that has been mak­ing women feel like Au­drey Hep­burn since 1957.

The out­come, the vel­vet dandy slip­per, has its roots go­ing even fur­ther back to Ge­or­gian times. Th­ese have evolved from win­ter vel­vets into bright stripes, em­broi­dered and stud­ded styles for spring at Tods, Roger Vivier and Pene­lope Chil­vers. They are a per­fect mar­riage of style and prac­ti­cal­ity for the new sea­son.

Rus­sell & Brom­ley French Cuff shoe £245

Gian­vito Rossi me­tal­lic T-bar bootie £475

Ru­pert San­der­son Teoni in turquoise, fuch­sia and blue me­tal­lic £685

Ser­gio Rossi T-bar £890

Jimmy Choo Manous in or­chid suede £695

Fringe drama from Ser­gio Rossi £910

Ru­pert San­der­son white patent £895

Ni­cholas Kirk­wood laced peep­toe £580

Roger Vivier Belle de Nuit wedge £595

Tods striped slip-on £235

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