WINE RICHARD EHRLICH Whatevertheweather,thistrioshines

SOME years ago I asked Michael Schuster, a distinguished wine writer (and the best wine educator I know), whether he would like to make wine himself. He replied: “The problem with being a winemaker is that you spend two weeks a year making wine and 50 weeks being a farmer.”

I was reminded of his words recently, with news of a repeat of last year’s catastrophic storms in Burgundy’s Côte de Beaune. Hailstones “the size of ping pong balls” ripped through the vineyards; some growers will have lost 75-90 per cent of their crop.

The storm will not mean there is no 2013 vintage in Burgundy. The Côte de Beaune is a small part of the region’s production and other areas were unaffected. Most wine drinkers won’t even know.

For me, apart from the likelihood that climate change is behind this extreme weather, the most heart-wrenching part of this is the human cost. Jasper Morris MW, of Berry Bros & Rudd, commented: “Some people could go out of business. These guys work 365 days a year for one harvest to produce something magical — and in a space of two hours, they can lose the lot.” To dispel gloomy thoughts, here are three sunny wines. First: Yalumba Y Series Viognier 2012, deserving winner of a Great Value Trophy in the recent International Wine Challenge. Consistently one of Australia’s best Viogniers, with a silky texture giving weight to its stonefruit flavours. Around £9-11 from several retailers, but cheapest at Majestic – buy two bottles and it’s just £7.99. Two: A sunny Alsation Riesling, Grafenreben 2010, Caves de Beblenheim (£9.99, Waitrose). Alsace Riesling is an often unappreciated family of wines.

This specimen is memorable, with lovely floral aromas and lively acidity. Sip it outside.

And finally, another cheapy: Simply Garnacha Rosé 2012 (Tesco, £4.99). This originates in the outstanding Bodegas de Borsão in Spain’s Campo de Borja, and its simple, uncomplicated strawberry flavours will bring a smile to anyone’s face. Well, almost anyone’s.