Cycle lanes mean happy Danes
Everyone in Denmark does it and it is the best way to see the coastline says Lianne Kolirin
THE PLAN was to explore the Danish Riviera on two wheels. But it wasn’t until I got in the saddle that I discovered there was only one handle brake, which is common in Denmark and much of Europe. The panicky voice in my head urged me to ditch the idea, yet the sheer embarrassment of squirming my way out of a half-hour ride on pancake-flat terrain proved too much.
Some say Danes learn to ride as soon as they can walk. That theory is in evidence across the region of North Sealand and indeed the nearby capital, Copenhagen.
Denmark is luxuriously flat and with an extensive network of broad and clearly marked cycle paths, it is the preferred mode of transport for many. In London, the image of the cycling commuter favours the young and sprightly, while in Denmark there are no such stereotypes. Everyone, including heavily pregnant women, is at it. So I got pedalling. There were several wobbles, but otherwise all went smoothly and I soon came to see why there is no better way to experience this charming place.
As fans of TV drama will know, Denmark is where it’s at. Providing the setting for The Killing and Borgen, it is now cooler than cool. Visitors can easily combine the buzzing metropolis of the capital with a more sedate visit to the coast in a long weekend.
You can drive or take the train for the short journey to North Sealand. Besides the coast and wonderful sea air, the region’s most famous attraction is Kronborg Castle, aka Hamlet’s Castle. The impressive sixteenth century structure sits atop a hill, overlooking the sea and Sweden.
The Castle in Elsinore, or Helsingør in Danish, hosts an outdoor Shakespeare festival in the summer and there’s a guided tour following in Hamlet’s footsteps.
The town recently enjoyed a massive cultural revival and is now home to Han, a shiny sculptural homage to the Little Mermaid. The figure of the boy, styled in the same pose as Hans Christian Anderson’s heroine, is made of stainless steel, reflecting the sky, water and buildings.
Nearby, construction workers toil away on what promises to be a major new tourist attraction. Millions have been spent on the new Danish Maritime Museum, which will be housed underground in the remnants of the town’s old shipyard. The groundbreaking project is an epic one, due to open later this year. But whether it is to be
or not to be in 2013 is hard to say, as the area is still an enormous building site.
Nonetheless, there is another reason to book for this autumn. A short distance away lies the fishing town of Gilleleje, which in Octo- b e r wi l l celebrate the 70th anniversary of the dramatic rescue of Danish Jews. Germany occupied Denmark in 1941, yet the residents of Gilleje — and much of Denmark — were against the oppression of Jews and so helped hide them. When word spread that the Gestapo were rounding up the Jews, the town’s fishermen bravely ferried the fugitives across to neutral Sweden. Ever proud of its heritage, Gillelje is planning a major celebration to commemorate the m o m e n t o u s anniversary. Besides the history, the charming town has much to offer visitors, including welcoming cafes and wonderful views. The Gilleleje Badehotel is a great place to stay, with many rooms having spectacular sea views. It is a prime spot for beach walks, has a Scandinavian spa and a pleasantly intimate restaurant
An air of cool and calm is ever present in Denmark, which is hardly surprising, given it was ranked by the UN as the happiest nation in the world last year. If it all sounds rather Disneyland, fear not, as the reality could not be further from that.
Even Tivoli Gardens, the world’s second oldest amusement park, is far from tacky. Located in the heart of Copenhagen, the venue, which opened i n 1843, is a great place to hang out, day or ni g ht . T here a r e white knuckle rides,
but it’s also a great place to eat, drink or see a concert. The Nimb terrace is a wonderful Tivoli restaurant, serving a smorgasbord of Danish delicacies, based on seasonal, locally-sourced produce. Admittedly though, there was not a meal I didn’t enjoy in Denmark. Ingredients are exceptionally fresh and flavours generally light and delicate. Noma, Copenhagen’s world famous riverside eatery, has two Michelin stars but if your budget won’t stretch to Noma, catch a glimpse on a river tour of Copenhagen. The weather is no more reliable than ours, so a cagoule is in order.
That said, a trip to Denmark is not booked with visions of blazing sun and balmy nights. Here instead, the locals make a feature of their sometimes chilly conditions.
Danes cherish anything hygge. There is no direct translation, with ‘cosy’ being the closest.
They say hygge involves “creating a nice, warm atmosphere and enjoying the good things in life with good people”. So eating a great meal with loved ones is hygge, as is candlelight and the blankets you snuggle under in chilly restaurants.
But outdoor concerts, picnics and bike rides are all hygge too, which perhaps explains why Danes are so happy and their home such a wonderful place to visit.