GETTING THERE

PONZA

The first port of call is the Italian island of Ponza, its pastel houses tumbling down to the harbour. We anchor in the bay, lower the tender and we are ferried to shore.

This is not the mass cruise tourism I’ve witnessed before, rather we disembark in groups of around twenty and there are no vendors trying to catch us when we arrive.

I explore the sleepy little town for a couple of hours then I take the tender back to the boat — they leave every half an hour so there’s no real rush.

MOUNT ETNA

We make our way down the West Coast of Italy, stopping at the island of Capri, before negotiating the Straits of Messina and arriving in Taormina, Sicily.

I booked an excursion up Mount Etna and am pleased to see that the top is free of cloud although there doesn’t appear to be any snow.

We climb through solidified lava flows then take a cable car and finally a 4WD brings us to the summit.

It’s quite chilly up here at 3,000m and I solve the mystery –— there is snow but it’s carpeted by black ash from an eruption earlier this year.

It’s too dangerous to get near the main vent but auxiliary craters oblige with puffs of sulphurous gases.

ALL AT SEA

The next day is all at sea, crossing the Adriatic to the Greek island of Corfu. I worry I might be bored but the captain has arranged for us to take part in tacking manoeuvres — it’s all hands to the ropes and I even manage a spell at the wheel.

Braver souls climb the rigging to the crow’s nest, with harness of course, but I prefer to sit and watch. Access

KOTOR

From Corfu we aim North first with Albania to starboard and then the countries of the former Yugoslavia.

The Bay of Kotor in Montenegro is particularly attractive –— it’s Europe’s southernmost fjord and sheer mountains tumble down to the sea, with villages sprawling at water’s edge.

Kotor itself is a delightful fortified medieval town and its walls climb high to the fortress above, offering protection from all directions.

Dubrovnik is pretty good too and four days later, all too soon, we arrive in Venice.

On board, the living is easy, as they say, and I begin to warm to the attraction of tall ship cruising.

It’s one of the easiest forms of travel, as once you’ve unpacked your case, everything else is taken care of.

The itinerary is organised, food appears as if by magic and what makes Royal Clipper extra special is the high standard of service and attention to detail, and the camaraderie.

Regulars say they wouldn’t cruise any other way.

offer fully crewed tall ship sailing voyages in the Mediterranean, the Caribbean, Central America and Cuba. A threenight sailing on board the flagship Royal Clipper costs from £680 per person. A seven-night Greek Islands sailing on Star Clipper costs from £1470 per person and an 11-night Mediterranean sailing costs from £2550 per person. Prices meals on board and port taxes. Tel0845 200 6145 www.starclippers.co.uk