Street food fans goupmarket
OUTDOOR DINING markets — where yo u c a n s t r o l l around and pick whatever food you fancy — are all the rage. The first UK Mercato Metropolitano (there are two in Italy) is in a disused paper factory in London SE1, 15 minutes’ walk from Borough Market and full of Italian and London-based artisan food producers. There is a bakery, a fishmonger, pizza chefs and coffee roast- ers, as well as an Italian supermarket. A large covered area provides shelter for inclement days. You will also find a cinema and various classes. JUST HATCHED Bluebird, the ex-Conran restaurant at the foot of King’s Road, Chelsea, has had a brush-up. Trees and foliage break up the cavernous room, now soothingly lit. Branislav Vilimanovic, the sommelier, has curated a new wine list including organic varieities “because they like healthy drinks and juices in Chelsea.” Menu stand-outs were a superb burrata with datterini tomato and basil, as seen on page 58; grilled yellow-fin tuna and steamed bass. Service was charming but, in week two of opening, a little slow. Nesting instinct: greenery brings a cosier feel to the spacious Bluebird MOREMOO The Islington outpost of Tootoomoo — formerly just take-away — has had a redesign. Kitchens are now downstairs, making room for 40 covers at ground level. Lychee caipirinhas — risqué on a school night — arrived in glass jars and were all too easy to drink.
The Asian tapas menu (different at each branch) never fails to please. And only chopsticks saved the seaweed salad, dressed with sticky black pepper and sesame, from disappearing in seconds. Vegetarian pot stickers were small parcels of deliciousness — they arrive in threes, so if dining à deux, be prepared for chopsticks at dawn. ANOTHER IVY CAFÉ In recent years, The Ivy has gone from grande dame to brand name. A third Ivy Café has opened in St John’s Wood, joining Marylebone and Wimbledon. The pewter bar, marble tiled floors and picture-filled walls replicate the glamour of the original. From expert champagne-pouring on arrival to the surprise basket of (courgette fries) before our starters arrived, David Gjytetza, the assistant general manager, was on it.
There is an all-day, brasserie-style menu and brunch at weekends. Apple and stilton salad and the buffalo mozzarella with glazed figs and truffled honey were pretty. Fishcakes topped with a perfectly poached egg lived up to the original Ivy version and that day’s special fish, halibut with pink grapefruit chimichurri, was excellent.
A blackberry shortcake sundae paired textures and flavours of meringue, cream, vanilla ice-cream, crushed hazelnuts and a tart, blackberry sauce. Smitten. PARK CAFÉ AT KING GEORGE’S PARK, BUSHEY JC Food popped in for brunch, with a little person in tow, who enjoyed falafel in pitta — customised by the kitchen to include cucumber slices and exclude all other traditional accompaniments. CENTRAL HEATING A winter wonderland has been created in the Dalloway Terrace restaurant at the Bloombsury Hotel (visit from November 8). Florist Wild at Heart by Nikki Tibbles has created a snowy, foliage-filled scene, where diners can snuggle under sheepskin blankets on the heated terrace. The menu includes savoury and sweet fondues in collaboration with The Fromagerie; there will be an afternoon tea and hot chocolate cocktail menu from Maison Pierre Marcolini and, every Saturday night, the Dalloway Film Club will show classics on a 30ft screen with the soundtrack delivered via wireless headphones. Bring on winter.
Snuggle up, see a film and sip hot chocolate cocktails’
SUNNY AFTERNOON Fans of an al fresco Israeli breakfast will welcome back Eytan Grunberg at the Sunny Hill Park café. Says Grunberg: “I’m committed to restoring the reputation that followed us for the past 15 years.” FALAFEL FRENZY In Aldgate, east London, grab an Israeli-themed bite in Alie Street, the latest branch of Pilpel. The falafel is made to Uri Dinay’s secret family recipe — developed by grandfather Zion over 60 years at a Tel Aviv falafel kiosk. Mercato Metropolitano: Italian market vibe in London