HOTEL BELLEVUE

VFAR FROM the madding crowd, yet just a 15 minute walk from the main gate of the sixth century walled city, Hotel Bellevue is Dubrovnik’s answer to stylish seaside serenity. Reopened in April after a total refurbishment, this glistening structure is almost entirely glassed at the rear, with incredible views across the Miramare bay.

The interiors of the 91 bedrooms and suites are cool, sleek and minimalist, decorated in a calming cream and taupe palette with subtle geometric patterns, textured fabrics, pale wood floors and well-lit white bathrooms with L’Occitane toiletries.

All the rooms have glorious sea views — it’s worth paying extra for a superior room with a balcony upon which to sit and enjoy them. We averaged 17,000 steps a day exploring the old city and sank gratefully into the comfortable bed each night, after savouring the evening delivery of Bajadera chocolate (a Croatian delicacy not to be missed!) to our room.

Breakfast is a small buffet with lovely fresh fruit, bread, pastries, lots of cheese and salad, plus terrific omelettes and deep-fried cheese in batter (a Croatian speciality every bit worth the calories). We sat on the shaded terrace to enjoy the morning sun, but indoor tables have terrific views and there’s a lively atmosphere.

After a hot day touring the crowded city, climbing the ramparts to see spectacular views and visiting the tiny synagogue, which is the second oldest shul in Europe, it was a pleasure to relax at the hotel’s fine dining restaurant Vapor for dinner.

First, live music and cocktails on the large terrace overlooking the sea as the sun set before a table for two under the velvety night sky. Among an extensive menu of Dalmatian and Mediterranean cuisine, truffle lovers need look no further than gnocchi in truffle sauce with mushrooms and shavings of the black stuff — definitely the best dish I had during four days of fabulous food in Dubrovnik.

There are plentiful fish and vegetarian options, including John Dory on rocket risotto with beetroot and ginger sauce too. Our meal was nicely rounded off with Baklava with cherries — the Turkish sweet treat is a nod to Dubrovnik’s history of being under Ottoman rule.

It’s also a perfect spot to discover Croatian wines. Wonderful and rarely exported, you should enjoy them where you can — book a tasting in the impressive Wine Room.

The service, from friendly, knowledgeable staff, is attentive and personal. On the first morning, my husband collected two glasses of orange juice from the buffet; as we sat down on the second, a waiter came over to check if he would like the same again. When we asked the concierge for directions to the bus stop to travel to a nearby village, he pointed out that an uber ride would be faster than the walk to the bus stop alone, would only cost about a fiver and even recommended a restaurant for lunch.

You can make the most of this seaside retreat at the small pebble beach with sunbeds, as well as a spa with indoor pool and sauna. Or less than 10 minutes away is the beach resort of Lapad, a lively place full of little restaurants and bars, where guests can also make use of Bellvue’s sister hotel’s outdoor pool.

LOUISA WALTERS