The Mail on Sunday

Groovy Grüner is so gluggable

Zesty Austrian stunner that’s the pinnacle of summertime sipping

- Olly Smith

SATURDAY Kitchen recently welcomed that icon of the US cooking scene, chef Wolfgang Puck, to cook in his signature style with i nspira- tional zeal.

He was visiting London to launch his new CUTCakes & Tea afternoon tea at 45 Park Lane and we got to talking about his love of wine from his homeland in Austria.

We touched on the beauty of red Blaufränki­sch, but if there’s one Austrian grape that’s the pinnacle of summertime sipping, it’s got to be Grüner Veltliner.

If only it could just be called ‘ Groovy’, perhaps this dazzling white grape would enjoy even more meteoric success.

You say it ‘Grooner Velt-leener’ and it’s generally made in a dry style – as pristine as the peak of a

GRÜNER VELTLINER

sharpened Alp and scented as a herby mountain meadow.

This grape is all about freshness and zestiness, and sometimes has a little tickle of spice nipping about like a white peppercorn in a pinball machine. It’s superbly suited to light dishes, from sushi to salads and, when in season, the tricky wine-slaying flavours of artichoke and asparagus.

But if you enjoy Asian spices and curried cooking, it can cope superbly too, and as for an unexpected­ly tasty pairing, it’s cracking with camembert and stunning with schnitzel.

The great news as far as finding a decent bottle is that there’s plenty available on the high street, and if you want to get deep into serious Grüner glory, surf some online specialist­s such as alpinewine­s.co. uk, or pop in for a glass at Newcomer Wines ( newcomerwi­nes. com), which stocks directly from Austrian winemakers.

For an absolute steal, Majestic has Majestic Loves Grüner Veltliner 2016 (12.5%) from Hungary, which starts at £5.99 – the label is eye- catching, t he wine i s fun and gluggable and it’s a top bet for summer parties this year. And for a real treat this summer, cook a cheeky schnitzel and pour yourself a glass of Grüner. While it may not be quite up to the standard of Wolfang Puck’s cooking, the wine will effortless­ly lift the whole experience to the very summit of Mount Enjoyment.

 ??  ??

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United Kingdom