The Mail on Sunday

This Hare really packs a punch

- THE HARE RESTAURANT WITH ROOMS, Scawton, North Yorkshire Dinner, b&b from £370 a night (thehare-inn.com). Richard Mellor

AFTER nine delectable courses, most accompanie­d by a fresh tipple, I need only walk ten paces, unlock my door, climb a short staircase and collapse delightedl­y into bed.

Until July, however, diners at The Hare Inn lacked this most convenient option. For it was only then that this rural North Yorkshire establishm­ent unveiled two indulgent bedrooms. Already, though, they are in demand – while dinner reservatio­ns have to be made six weeks in advance, overnight stays sell out three months ahead. Luckily, two more luxury chambers are due next summer.

In offering accommodat­ion, The Hare can now compete with two other food-famous ‘posh pubs’ here on the south-western fringe of the North York Moors National Park – Harome’s Star Inn and The Black Swan at Oldstead, which each boast a Michelin star.

The Hare still flies slightly under the radar, despite head chef Paul Jackson hoovering up numerous awards, and wife Liz’s stellar front-of-house work. And, indeed, despite its fine old building and handy location, flanked by fields and moorland in t he farming village of Scawton. Inside a 30- minute drive are the ancient market town of Helmsley, where a ruined castle overlooks independen­t cafes and shops, and glorious westwards views from the escarpment of Sutton Bank.

The cosy restaurant at The Hare is set in a long, low-ceilinged room. Exposed brick is spiced up with draped pelts and silvery stag heads. Despite a formal service, the feel is anything but stuffy.

The USP: Paul’s glorious cooking. The food: Tasting menus can be over-showy, but not here – Paul’s food ranks among the best I’ve ever tasted. There’s playful ambition in tomato tea and nitrogenfr­ozen ewe’s-milk ice cream, but also fulsome flavours and satisfying portions. Liz’s daring yet canny wine choices, not least a sweet plum saké, further the pleasure. The main course sees loin and shoulder cuts of venison alongside beetroot and foraged elderberri­es. Breakfast options include a similarly meaty fry-up and homemade granola. The rooms: White is up in the firstfloor eaves (mind the low rafters) and exposed chunks of 12th Century stone stress the old house’s heritage. Not that all is rustic – in the room you’ll find an espresso machine, a spa-like bathroom with a freestandi­ng tub, plus mirrors aplenty. The overall vibe is one of cosy, chunky-wood chic. Groundfloo­r room Denison is marginally smaller yet more romantic.

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 ??  ?? INDULGENT: A deep tub, above, in the eaves room. Left: Boxing hares artwork in the grounds
INDULGENT: A deep tub, above, in the eaves room. Left: Boxing hares artwork in the grounds

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