You can’t beat the poetry of peonies
Exquisite cup-shaped blooms have thrived here since the 10th Century – despite some VERY bizarre advice
I’VE read some bizarre gardening advice in my time but this gem from John Gerard takes the biscuit. The 16th Century botanist suggests anyone wanting to lift a peony from the ground should first lash it to a hungry hound. The beast will then drag it out by the roots when tempted to move towards a piece of roasted meat.
This pearl of wisdom comes from his Herball, published in 1597, and the tips don’t end there. According to Gerard, those undertaking the procedure should do so at night to avoid attracting the attention of woodpeckers. He warns that if they spot you, they will swoop and pluck out your eyes.
Clearly I don’t subscribe to this method and can offer a much easier solution for anyone wanting to move a peony, but more about that later. For the moment, let’s all agree that peonies are one of our best-loved perennials thanks to exquisite blooms that appear from April until early July, depending on variety.
Many are at their best right now, brightening up beds, borders and other displays with
One botanist suggested letting a hungry hound pull the roots from the ground
their saucer, cup or bowl-shaped blooms in shades of white, yellow, pink, red, coral and maroon. Held on 12in to 36in stems, they y are often delightfully scented and open in succession over a three to fourweek period.
Late spring is a good time to plant container-grown specimens in fertile, moist but well-drained soil – avoid heavy clay as plants are likely to rot over winter.
They’ll produce more flowers if you give them a sunny spot, although blooms tend to last longer and are slower to fade when plants are set in dappled shade.
Peonies originate from Southern Europe, East Asia and North America. They arrived in Britain back in the 10th Century and were originally grown for medicinal use. They really took off as a garden plant in the 19th Century following the introduction of many showy varieties developed by nurserymen in France and Britain.
Today, there are hundreds of different perennial types with flowers measuring anywhere from 2in to 8in across. There are single, semi-double and double varieties, along with anemone-types, whose overlapping petals surround a mass of narrow petal- like structures, known technically as petaloids.
They have the potential to live for decades, so give them a good start in life. Dig a hole that’s three times the width of the rootball and the same depth, then fortify the excavated soil with garden compost or well-rotted manure.
Pierce the bottom and sides of the hole with a fork to allow roots to penetrate easily.
Scatter a handful of bonemeal fertiliser across the base of the hole to help the plant develop strong roots. Place the plant in the centre and gradually fill with the improved soil, firming as you go to eliminate large air pockets. After planting, the top of the rootball should be flush with the surface.
Most peonies need supporting to prevent stems collapsing under the weight of their own flowers. One way is to use ‘grow through support rings’, consisting of a circular wire grid fixed to three legs. Place above clumps in early spring and pull up as shoots extend, stopping at half the mature height of the plant.
During flowering, keep clumps at t r acti ve by r emoving t at t y blooms, cutting stems just above the first pair of healthy leaves. Once the display is over, foliage will provide verdant interest all summer and change colour in autumn. In late October or early November, cut everything back to about an inch above the ground.
Peonies aren’t particularly troubled by pests, but over the years I’ve received many emails from readers worried that ants are attacking their plants. I’m quick to point out that ants feed on nectar secreted by the buds and they don’t actually damage peonies. In fact, their presence protects the plants from aphids.
As for moving peonies from one part of the garden to another, don’t attempt to pull them up with a ravenous dog tied to a rope. Instead, dig up in early autumn and replant immediately to make sure that plants establish before winter.
This method should ensure that plants burst into life again the following spring.