Where the spirit of the sea comes alive
YOU might hardly notice the sea on a visit to Cardiff, Brighton or Liverpool. But take a break in Falmouth, one of England’s classic seafaring capitals, and it feels like you’re surrounded by the briny.
On one side of town are four beaches, on the other is Falmouth’s main claim to fame – one of the world’s deepest harbours.
This four-mile haven sits on the south Cornish coast, creating spectacular panoramas from any of the palm-fringed, pastel-coloured terraces by the waterside.
There are oyster stalls, nautical gift shops and menus crammed with seafood – no wonder the high street bunting boasts: ‘Falmouth – the spirit of the sea.’
Sitting between the once-smallest transatlantic boat (measuring just 6ft) and an exhibition of tattoos is an underwater window at the National Maritime Museum. One can peer into the famous harbour’s murky depths to see bass glide by, despite barnacles on the glass trying to block your view.
Even the town’s Pendennis Castle is nautical – it was built by Henry VIII to defend the harbour against French ships.
Most seaworthy of all, though, are the boat trips, such as the 20-minute splash to St Mawes for close-ups of huge ships in the docks, luxury yachts and, if you’re lucky, frolicking dolphins.
Falmouth is by far the livelier spot, though, with its thriving art college, street life and live music. And the artistic highlights of the town are, of course, the glorious seascape paintings at the Poly arts centre and Falmouth Art Gallery. Where to stay: The Chain Locker is a classic waterfront pub with six rooms in converted lofts. B&B doubles cost from £119 per night (chainlockerfalmouth.co.uk).