Healing magic of this Hebridean haven
THE Hebrides has its fair share of famous islands. Jura, where George Orwell retreated in the 1940s to write 1984, the ‘whisky isle’ of Islay, and Skye, to where Bonnie Prince Charlie escaped. But there’s one more that deserves to be on the list.
Luing (pronounced Ling), north of Jura, is just six miles long by a mile-and-a-half wide. Until the 1960s it was one of the ‘slate islands’ off this windswept coast of Argyll’s western Highlands, providing the distinctive rock for construction. They were known as the islands that roofed the world.
The quarries are now idle and there’s a population of just 176 – but double that for the cattle, then double it again for the sheep.
There’s one main road with no roundabouts or traffic lights, two immaculate villages, a volunteer fire brigade service, one shop and no police. The only way on or off is by a car ferry that crosses the 200m stretch of water from Seil, which in turn is joined to the mainland by the old Clachan Bridge, a halfhour’s drive from Oban.
I’m staying at Wild Luing, the brainchild of couple Jack and Emily Cadzow, and Jack’s brother Archie. It comprises one communal building, the Observatory, where group dinners can be held, and eight cabins, all looking over the bay.
Though the set-up is self-catering (a generous, wholesome breakfast is included), a local chef, Iain Jeromson, can be hired to cook for groups or prepare ready-made meals.
My cabin is bliss. Wrapped in a curved tin roof, there’s a vast bed, roll-top bath, sofa and a welldesigned kitchen. The doors open to a private deck with a fire pit and uninterrupted views across the Torsa Bay. It’s more comfortable than glamping, less formal than a hotel and more private than a holiday cottage.
The bay is so gorgeous that a couple of us brave the chill to swim. Some (me) make a lot of sweary heavy weather about getting in – sorry to the seals that call this home. There’s cycling, kayaking and hiking galore, and Jack and Emily take us on the family boat, called Doris, past sea eagles in nests as big as double beds, for a yomp over to the neighbouring island Scarba.
The bracken is turning orange, and we spot stags and a wild boar before a sudden downpour coincides with the realisation my coat isn’t waterproof. My earlier smugness about being completely at one with nature is washed away.
But my hot bath awaits – welcoming and restorative, much like Luing itself.
Cabins from £200 per night on B&B basis (wildluing.com). The ferry from Seil to Luing is from £2.50 return for an adult foot passenger, or from £4.50 for a car (cuanferry.argyll-bute.gov.uk).