Gems and jumbos on an island proud of its colonial roots
IN MINNERIYA National Park we’re on a quest to see one of Sri Lanka’s biggest stars: the elephant. Our jeep pulls out of the forest and thrusts us into a panoramic landscape of wide green plains and a vast reservoir. Mere feet away are seven elephants, kicking and pawing at the dirt like schoolboys in the playground. Closer to the water, there’s another ten. And beyond, a dozen more.
This is The Gathering, the summer phenomenon when Sri Lanka’s elephants migrate to this body of water in the dry middle of the country.
An island nation in the Indian Ocean, Sri Lanka’s nickname is The Pearl, a nod to its tear-drop shape. It’s apt for a nation which dazzles with the colours of precious jewels.
We land in Colombo, the capital city where locals are proud of their colonial heritage – and the jewel-coloured food here is distinctly Sri Lankan. We feast on bubbling, ruby-red chicken curry, golden dhal and glistening, amber lagoon crab – a local delicacy.
Then it’s time for our epic road trip through the lush wetlands of the Cultural Triangle, the hills and waterfalls of the Central Province and the beaches of the south coast.
We’re heading north-east on the highway. From the car I glimpse layers of glassy paddy fields, the white foam of a torrential waterfall and misty mountains, swathed in wispy clouds like a receding hair line.
Sigiriya, the ancient palace of a playboy king known as the ‘Lion’s Rock Fortress’, is wonderful. Having arrived before sunrise to beat both the crowds and the stifling heat, we have it to ourselves. It sits atop jutting volcanic rock, taller than a skyscraper, and was built as a monastery in the 4th Century before it was corrupted by King Kashyapa.
HALF-WAY up the 1,200-step ascent are two formidable lions’ paws – each 10ft high – challenging us to climb further, if we dare. We do dare, and are rewarded at Sigiriya’s summit with regal 360-degree views of Sri Lanka in all its luscious glory.
Braving a winding pathway on the rock facade, we enter a hidden cave adorned with paintings, 1,000 years old, of beautiful nymphs which – befitting the rascally Kashyapa – are somewhat fruity.
The adventure continues a tenminute drive away, at the boutique Jetwing Vil Uyana hotel, a sanctuary for animals and animal-lovers alike. Its sprawling villas have private pools, stone bathtubs and five-star mod cons, yet they’re ensconced within the wetland habitat of wild and beautiful animals.
The resort’s resident naturalist, Chaminda Jayasekara, shows us night-vision footage of animals caught on camera like clumsy burglars. There’s a fishing cat, which looks like a baby leopard, a crocohas dile and even an elephant who’s taken the liberty of gatecrashing the resort for a swim in the pool.
But it’s perfectly safe, Chaminda assures me, because ‘the animals are very shy – they’re more scared of us than we are of them’.
A two-hour drive south in the Central Province is the city of Kandy, the location for Indiana Jones And The Temple Of Doom. Today it has another claim to fame as one of the best places for bargain bling, so we make a pit stop for a spot of jewellery shopping.
One of the geographically oldest countries in the world, at an age of up to 2.4billion years, Sri Lanka one of the world’s highest densities of precious gems.
The jewels are mined by hand in the jungle, and there are great bargains to be had – roughly half the price you’d find in London’s Hatton Garden. The industry is regulated by the government, and it’s worth finding an accredited dealer who’ll provide validity certificates for your purchases.
Sri Lanka is exotic, but the remnants of its colonial history – the left-hand driving, English language and UK plug sockets – makes it smoother than coconut oil for British travellers.
It’s safe, too, despite recently emerging from civil wars, a 2019 terrorist attack and an ongoing economic crisis which led to runs on fuel and electricity.
The Foreign Office lifted its warning against ‘all but essential travel’ in 2022.
Sri Lanka is actually one of the tamest Asian countries I’ve visited. Everywhere, we’re met with a ‘Ayubowan!’, the bowed, pressed-palm greeting, which means ‘May you live a long life’.
To round off the tour we headed to the beachy Southern Province, staying at the glorious Cape Weligama. Looking out to sea it’s hard to believe the nearest land, as the crow flies, is Antarctica.