Loch Teacuis - a once-avoided sea loch attracts visiting yachts
HISTORY was made in Morvern a few weeks ago when a flotilla of seven yachts belonging to members of the prestigious Royal Highland Yacht Club (RHYC) sailed into Loch Teacuis and anchored for the night.
Probably not since the commandos were training in the area during the Second World War, had so many vessels been seen in the loch at the same time.
Every season the RHYC holds three on-the-water musters. This year the first was in Loch Spelve and attracted nearly 40 boat owners, seven of whom decided to take advantage of the fine weather and set sail for Loch Teacuis the following day. Their mission was two-fold. Firstly, to reconnoitre the reputedly difficult entrance and, secondly, to investigate the possibility of using the loch for a future muster.
Leading the flotilla was Commodore and Mrs Boyd Holmes in their magnificent blue-hulled, 45-foot sloop Blue Damsel wearing the blue ensign and flying a commodore’s swallow-tailed, broad pennant at the masthead and a civil jack at the bow when at anchor.
Accompanying Blue Damsel were Far2Go, Sand Dollar, Perdika, Loose Cannon, Leumadair of Lorne and True Brew.
It was a perfect West Highland spring evening with cuckoos calling incessantly from the newly-leafed oak and birch woods. Sea trout plopped in the shallows, deer grazed by the water’s edge and the yachts floated idly from side to side in the dying breeze presenting a fine spectacle.
Describing Loch Teacuis as a truly, heavenly place; a haven of peace and quiet, Commodore Boyd Holmes said: ‘Whilst many yachtsmen choose to avoid Loch Teacuis, its challenging entrances should no longer frighten the adventurous who enjoy exploring remote and interesting anchorages. The advice in the latest Clyde Cruising Club sailing directions, which reflect surveys undertaken by Antares Charts, is spot on and has really opened up this perfect gem on the west coast to a wider audience of sailors. Entering the loch with Antares charts running with GPS on a computer or smartphone removes much of the anxiety previously felt by yachtsmen.
‘On our visit we were lucky to identify the perfect shore site to hold a future muster and to learn that the landowner is well disposed to yachtsmen and women going ashore in this enchanting place. With only occasional exceptions, we find west coast landowners most amenable to approaches to hold musters on their land adjoining suitable anchorages. Many go further by offering the use of shelter and barbecues; and firewood for the traditional muster bonfire – the best midge repellent.’
Loch Teacuis has much to offer whether you arrive by yacht or canoe.
For the archaeologist and historian there is the fascinating vitrified Iron Age fort on top of the Giant’s Knoll, guarding the narrow entrance to the inner loch and an easily accessible 4,000-year- old burial cairn near Carnliath on the north shore. Not far away is Rahoy House, available to rent, where Dr John Maclachlan (1804-74), the famous Gaelic bard and physician was born. For naturalists there is the chance of sighting sea and golden eagles, otters and seals.
An old public footpath starts off from Carnliath and meanders over the hill to Glencripesdale and Laudale from which there are some of the finest views in Scotland.
Another right of way runs past the former school house at the head of the loch and along to the old village of Barr with its famous waterfall. Eventually the path, which is suitable for walkers and mountain-bikers, comes out at Drimnin and provides an all- encompassing circular day trip via Lochaline.
It is evident from local place names that the adventurous sea-faring Vikings found their way into Loch Teacuis and stayed long enough to repair their long-ships. Lying close to the great maritime highways of Loch Sunart and the Sound of Mull, it provided a perfect base from which to explore the surrounding countryside. It still does.
There are fish in abundance in Loch Teacuis and brown trout fishing in two neighbouring freshwater lochs. For the gourmet chefs, luscious Samphire grass is to be found in season on the saltings and, when the tides are very low, scallops and mussels are to be had once you know where to look for them.
There was a time when Loch Teacuis was known as the ‘forbidden loch’ because of its perceived inaccessibility and hostility of some of the adjoining landowners. Indeed, when Marine Protection Areas were being pushed through the Scottish Parliament recently, a group of local people wanted to have yachts banned from Loch Teacuis altogether.
Their argument was to protect some underwater plants but the real reason was to keep the loch as a private lagoon.
Thankfully they were unsuccessful. Silly notices about roaming bulls and unsolicited vehicles, redolent of the bad old days, are still to be seen but can safely be ignored in these enlightened times.
Congratulations to the RHYC members for tackling the not-so- difficult Carna Narrows and providing such a wonderful sight for those fortunate enough to live along the loch side. ‘Haste ye back’.