The Oban Times

MacPhail

- ANGUS MACPHAIL angusmacph­ail@yahoo.co.uk

Continuing from last week’s introducti­on to the wonders of the Glasgow restaurant Ox and Finch, the following is a subjective, ‘layman-like’ stab as to why this eatery has the desired effect on diners.

I would add, as referenced to last week, that in Oban, wider Argyll and other heartlands of the Oban Times readership there are many fine restaurant­s that in their own fields would equal or surpass this city contender. I’ll maybe touch on a few of these in future columns, but as it would put me at risk of being lynched by any who didn’t get a mention, I’ll stick to the safe anonymity of Glasgow for the time being!

The fact that you are served tapas-style dishes in Ox and Finch is of great attraction to me. Being able to try three or four dishes each means the taste buds remain alert throughout the meal and at no point does one get bored with the fayre being consumed. This Spanish-influenced idea of lots of small dishes instead of one big one certainly adds to the variety of the experience.

One of my favourite aspects of the place is the open-plan layout, meaning the chefs and kitchen staff are in full view from the tables. It is excellent to watch the speed, efficiency and skill of the kitchen operation and also how pristine everything and everyone always is. Watching the dishes being constructe­d and placed on the serving bar ready to be taken to the tables also adds greatly to the anticipati­on of the food’s arrival. When it comes to the table it does not disappoint!

Seared scallops, with piccalilli, black pudding and apple was first to arrive last Monday. The scallops were succulent with the deeply sweet flavour that can only be achieved by the freshest product, the black pudding exuded a strong savoury spice and was crumbled to perfection among the clams and the sharp high-frequency sweetness of the apple cut through above the rest, accentuati­ng the richness and perfection of balance in the dish.

A crab and crayfish cocktail with Bloody Mary and pickled celery, and a dish made up of slow-cooked lamb shoulder, bulgar wheat, apricots, almonds and mint yoghurt were close behind the scallops in their pleasing effect on the taste buds.

What marks this restaurant out particular­ly is that even with their regularly changing menu, I would give them five stars on each and every occasion I have visited.

The magical pleasure of food is conjured and delivered expertly and with impeccable consistenc­y in Ox and Finch and I would recommend to all.

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